essdee1972 wrote:
I need some advice on tangs. My Khuk has a rattail tang, fixed into the wooden handle with some local type mixture (probably with coaltar as a base + something...). I can see no way to stick the tang in a handle once I melt out the "adhesive". Probably m-seal would work, but only for show, probably would give out with the first use. Can I have a piece of steel welded on to make a full tang? Won't the welding heat damage whatever heat treatment is present on the blade (seems to be MS)?I was toying with the idea of using a plastic handle (like the ones for files / hacksaws) and heat-setting the tang. But it will totally totally ruin the looks!! As for tools, I am using hand tools only, except for a drill if needed. Might invest in a Dremel later on.
Traditionally lac was used to fix swords and daggers to the hilts but you are going to have a hard time doing that and finding the stuff etc.
if you want to work with the rat tail tang without modifying it then design a wood handle with locally available furniture grade wood. This may be done by cutting, grinding, shaving it off and filing it to the desired shape. If possible reinforce it with iron / brass / copper sheet bands fixed with fine nails. It will give it strength when you will be fixing the tang as well as add to the looks depending on how you do it.
Once this is done check out the diameter of the tip of the rat tail and use a drill bit of that diameter and length and drill a hole through the handle. Now use a slightly larger bit and go half way through the handle again. Once this is done use pin files of the appropriate diameters and file off inside the handle to give it a capsule shape to fut the tang inside. It should be a bit tight, if it is too tight and you try to hammer it then the handle will split through the middle.
Fixing: buy an epoxy adhesive (two component). You will most easily find either Araldite or Fevitite (Pidilite). MIx the epoxy in the appropriate ratio which is usually 1:1 but depends on the kind you are using.
Be sure to mix it in the right ratio and thoroughly. This will give you a viscous paste. Now “pour” the paste into the hole in the handle. You will not be able to exactly pour it in as it is viscous so let it drip in and use a stiff straw or a thin stick or something to guide it in to the end of the handle. No need to rush as it will not dry fast.
Ok before I forget: cut small notches into the tang with the help of a file or grinder. These will give an additional grip in the bond as the epoxy will get into the notches and fill these up and dry in this shape giving a non slip grip inside the handle. These epoxies are the non shrinking type and when dry are as hard as stone and do not melt when heated etc.
Coming back to the epoxy filled handle. Take a piece of wood and make the blade stand tip down and tang up on this piece of wood. Invert the handle with the hole facing the tang and force it in the hole by gently hammering the handle with another piece of wood or if you use a metal hammer do it gently.
This is going to be a messy affair as the epoxy will drip all over the blade and possibly the handle too will get smeared with it. Either wipe it off with a piece of cloth or be prepared in advance and cover the blade and handle in advance with a masking tape. If you leave it on the blade and handle then you will have a hard time cleaning it off as it will take a lot of sanding and filing, no other way to get it off after drying as it will be stone hard.
Leave the handle fixed to the blade for a few hours while the epoxy has still not set. A minimum of 5-6 hours to ideally 12 hours are needed.
Give the finishing touches and your knife is ready for use and abuse.
There are several other ways this could be done but looking into all that you have mentioned this is the simplest way I could figure out for you.