Hi Moin,
1) Any specific advantage in having a convex bevel on a blade compared to a flat or a "V"shaped bevel got by using sharpeners like Lansky or Gatco. With the quality of steels on most good quality production blades and the edge that you can get with a guided system like the Lansky or Gatco or your KME, will convexing an edge on something like a Essee's that you have shown or Spydies or BM's really make that big a difference.
Your question is already answered in the link you have posted.
I am a relative new comer to convex edges, so don't take what I say as gospel. For what it's worth, here's my take on the advantages of a convex edge:
a)It's a tougher edge because there is more metal behind the edge.
b)It takes just a few strokes to get it shaving sharp again (assuming you don't let it get blunt). A small leather strop could be carried in a shirt or trouser pocket (pics tomorrow) or you could even use a piece of non-corrugated cardboard.
c)Once the initial profiling is done, less metal is lost from the edge when re-sharpening.
d)Cutting wise I have found the ESEE-4 (convexed) to be on par with the ESEE-6 (bevelled) but that is probably due to me not providing a narrower shoulder on the 4. In theory, the convex edge should cut better because the material being cut is contacting the edge at a tangent rather than across the entire height of the edge. Ergo, less friction. Incidentally, both knives are stropped irrespective of the edge type they sport. The strppoing really makes a big difference to the final outcome and this is what I use to keep my knives sharp. Which brings me to my next point...
e)Convex edges are easier to strop than bevel edges. If you strop a bevel edge, eventually it to will get convexed.
Bear in mind that we are only discussing partially convexed edges and not full convex blades. The results should be even better in the case of the latter.
BTW, good quality steel is only half the story. If the heat treatment is not correct, even the best of super steels will make poor knives.
Ideally, I would like my knife blades to be diffentially heat treated and I hope to treat myself to one of Mr. Baker's Svord knives later this year.
2) How do you maintain the consistency of angle while stropping the blade on polish paper to convex your edge without scracthing the blade surface.
Here's a link I found on convexing edges.
http://bill-hay.com/Convex/Convex.htm
Read the link you provided.
Jokes aside, I think the consistency is a result of muscle memory from hours of practice.
3) Any specific advantages of muli bevels on blades wrt. sharpness.While multiple bevels can be put using a Lansky or a Gatco guided system, resharpening the blade will be a pain would'nt it. How would one remeber the exact position the blade was clamped on ?
I was being sarcastic when I asked Abhijeet how many of his knives now sported multiple bevels. It is not desired, unless you want a V-grind but with a thicker shoulder, though I cannot imagine what type of work one would want such an edge for. You could either write down the bevel angles or you could colour the muti-bevel edge with a permanent marker and use the angle that removes the colour from the edge.
4) Any advice on a suitable alternative for Lansky's honing oil.
Ahhh...the million Dollar question!
Singer or 3-in-1 oil will work just fine.
Stay sharp!
