Gun Blueing

[brihacharan]

For all those keen to maintain a shiny mettalic blue on your weapons, this tip may help. The wet process is cumbersome and expensive to get it done through your gunsmith. Here's what you can do. I'm not too sure if your local gun shop stocks this product - Its called PERMA BLUE, comes in a tube with blister packing. If you have friends coming from abroad you can request them to get a pack or two. The process is simple.
1. Wipe the outside metal parts with a soft cloth.
2. Make a mixture of 'ether & denatured spirit' (2 to 1) total about 200ml. Apply the mixture with a cotton swab - this de-greases the metal surfaces. Wipe clean with a soft cloth.
3. Apply a thick coat of PERMA BLUE paste on the metal surfaces with cotton swab & leave for an hour.
4. Wipe clean with a soft cloth and apply a very thin coat of machine oil.
The best part is you don't have to dismatle the action from the stock. Apply PERMA BLUE only to all the exposed metal parts of the gun. I have tried this a long time ago and it works well. Remember to wear thin rubber gloves while applying the PERMA BLUE.

Cheers
Brihacharan

[jonahpach]

Amazing!!

[ravi.sharma]

Great Info man, don't know how will it work, but thanks for Sharing. May be some experts can comment before we get in to the process individually.


Ravi.

[nagarifle]

nice one well done for finding it.

[cottage cheese]

Birchwood&Casey's PermaBlue, as good as the product is, like most other cold quick blue formulas, is primarily meant for re-touching worn areas. It isn't as durable and it is not a substitute for the actual blue.

I wouldn't recommend it for a full refinish...even though it is possible.

[brihacharan]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Re: Gun Blueing
by cottage cheese » Tue Feb 23, 2010 8:24 pm

Birchwood&Casey's PermaBlue, as good as the product is, like most other cold quick blue formulas, is primarily meant for re-touching worn areas. It isn't as durable and it is not a substitute for the actual blue.

I wouldn't recommend it for a full refinish...even though it is possible.

Hi CC,

I agree Perma Blue is not a suibstitute for the actual wet blueing process. But consider this:
1. The wet blueing process is messy
2. It takes a lot of time
3. You have to dismantle the metal parts from the stock
4. Its expensive ( wet process costs approx.Rs.2000 Vs Perma Blue Rs.350/-)
5. Perma Blue is DIY and you enjoy doing it & takes max 1 hour - You are at the mercy of your gun smith & may take 3 to 4 days of waiting.
Cheers
Brihacharan

[kanwar76]

brihacharan,

I got one question, are you doing full gun or just touching up some areas on the gun?

If its full gun and you are applying with cotton swab then how are you making sure that blue is not touching the wood parts? and what about the un-exposed part of the gun? Don't you think that also need protection from rust?

-Inder

[brihacharan]

brihacharan,

I got one question, are you doing full gun or just touching up some areas on the gun?

If its full gun and you are applying with cotton swab then how are you making sure that blue is not touching the wood parts? and what about the un-exposed part of the gun? Don't you think that also need protection from rust?

-Inder

Hi Inder!
Good question. You are right, the un-exposed part of the gun cannot be blued - its presumed that being covered by the stock its fairly well protected & OK. To avoid the wood part from being in contact with the blueing paste - you may apply a thin film of neutral vaseline on them prior to applying the blueing paste, since the blueing paste will not come in direct contact with the wood. It can be wiped off later. All said and done gun lovers touch their weapons atleast once in a week / fortnight. PERMA BLUE is a quick and simple way of keeping your guns looking great.
Cheers
Brihacharan

[cottage cheese]

Hi CC,

I agree Perma Blue is not a suibstitute for the actual wet blueing process. But consider this:
1. The wet blueing process is messy
2. It takes a lot of time
3. You have to dismantle the metal parts from the stock
4. Its expensive ( wet process costs approx.Rs.2000 Vs Perma Blue Rs.350/-)
5. Perma Blue is DIY and you enjoy doing it & takes max 1 hour - You are at the mercy of your gun smith & may take 3 to 4 days of waiting.
Cheers
Brihacharan

Hi brihacharan,

sorry if my post looked like I was trying to shut you down.... Quite to the contrary, I'd say go right ahead and try it. It's how I started almost 15 years back...and slowly progressed to the real stuff.

I agree DIY is fun as long as one knows what he is doing- I do have save a measure of respect for DIY people.

Points well taken.

regards,
cc

[dev]

Ummm try applying some hot water on the part to be blued and then drying it before it cools down. Apply the blue on the heated part. This will normally give a deeper blue as at times the bueing doesn't match the original, this trick works for that. You must use hot water after using the blue, this will give a slightly more enduring finish. Wait for blued part to dry or use kitchen towels (paper) and then oil.

Regards,

Dev

[shooter50]

Sorry guys for being rude. Perma blue is good enough for only screws and other small pieces. No gun enthusiast should ever attempt a full rifle/pistol blue with this concoction or other similar products. if u want to try a home blue i suggest a rust blue. Easy to obtain chemicals and with a little effort a finish comparable to the best.
Happy blueing

[aadhaulya]

I have been using Perma Blue for touch up. But since my revolver is EDC the blue comes off on all the edges of the cylinder, barrel, front sight and the trigger guard. I have to repeat the process about every month.
Recently I checked the process on youtube and noticed that the blued part should be washed with water to neutralize the bluing compound. I was not doing this.

Now I would like to know that can the revolver be washed. As I plan to wash it after bluing in running water. then ideally it should be cleaned with compressed air that i do not have at home. Instead I plan to shake it dry as much as possible, wash it with petrol and spray WD 40 liberally. Then oil the internal mechanism as far as possible.

I would like to get the suggestions of members, if that would be a good idea or not as it may eventually lead to rusting of some inaccessible part if any.

Atul

[brihacharan]

I have been using Perma Blue for touch up. But since my revolver is EDC the blue comes off on all the edges of the cylinder, barrel, front sight and the trigger guard. I have to repeat the process about every month.
Recently I checked the process on youtube and noticed that the blued part should be washed with water to neutralize the bluing compound. I was not doing this.

Now I would like to know that can the revolver be washed. As I plan to wash it after bluing in running water. then ideally it should be cleaned with compressed air that i do not have at home. Instead I plan to shake it dry as much as possible, wash it with petrol and spray WD 40 liberally. Then oil the internal mechanism as far as possible.

I would like to get the suggestions of members, if that would be a good idea or not as it may eventually lead to rusting of some inaccessible part if any.
Atul

Another good alternate to Perma Blue is "Ballistol' which is available freely in India & can be ordered on-line.
To get the best results:
1. Wipe the part to be blued with wet cloth to remove dirt / grime / sweat etc.
2. Wipe the parts to be blued with cotton soaked in "Surgical Spirit"...this is to de-grease the parts....wipe dry
3. Apply 2 or 3 coats of Ballistol using cotton....
4. Allow to dry for 15 minutes....
5. Wipe with moistened cloth to remove any residue chemical.....
6. Apply a thin coat of machine oil for gloss & finish....wipe off excess oil....
ATUL:
No need to expose the parts to be blued to running water
Just wipe with damp cloth several time.....
All my 3 ARs are blued with Ballistol & the bluing has retained for over a year!
Briha

[aadhaulya]

Briha ji,

You were one of the members who inspired me to start bluing.
I feel that 'Ballistol' products are expensive. The bluing compound supplied by Ballistol costs Rs 1500 for 50 ml. I have used two products till now.
1. Brunierung by Schnell a German product, landed cost the same. But I was not too happy with the performance required at least 5 to 7 coats.
2. Perma Blue landed costs about Rs. 1800 but it is a bottle of 90 ml, hence much cheaper than Ballistol that is Rs 1500 + shipping for only 50ml. And I found it better than the German product.

I will now clean it wit a wet cloth after bluing as you suggested and see the results.

Atul

[anoop]

Dear Briha ji, yet another tip is to use black permanent board marker ink. It gives a fair shine and lasts also. Costs just Rs 15 / - per bottle. Process for applying remains same as described by you. I have applied on my polaris. It appears fine. Anoop