hi
guys, i need your expert observations on this particular issue. i am in the process of purchasing a beretta 34, the price being quoted is very high. reason being it is in original bluing and condition. i am having my doubts that it could/ and also looks like a very well done, hot caustic finish. what would the differences be in a factory bluing and hot caustic finish.
regards
how to differentiate original factory blueing
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Re: how to differentiate original factory blueing
Hi Denong,blueing everywhere is done by dipping the steel parts into hot caustic,except for some manufactures doing a matt job or the blueing of the US PROPERTY 1911 Colt which is a shaded finish,it u are looking for the orignality of the Pistol check the writing it shouldnt be smuged or worn out and any othe tell tale signs of repairs like damaged screws or any uneveness on the body.Take out the slide and see the moving parts for any wear & tear.That should give u a fair idea about the pistol.Rest it depends on the person selling it.
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Re: how to differentiate original factory blueing
If you feel it has been re-blued pass on it. Personally I would check for signs of wear and tear, and generally for rust. Other than that the gun should be good to go. Bluing has absolutely no functional effect on the the weapon.
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Re: how to differentiate original factory blueing
Hello,
I would like to suggest you to take out digital pictures of the weapon in question. Zoom in and u will be surprised as to what a digital camera can see and what ur eye cannot... specially the finish part.
Best regards,
ssmickey.32
I would like to suggest you to take out digital pictures of the weapon in question. Zoom in and u will be surprised as to what a digital camera can see and what ur eye cannot... specially the finish part.
Best regards,
ssmickey.32
When the power of love overcomes the love of power - the world will know peace.
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Re: how to differentiate original factory blueing
The first thing to see is if there is blueing on rust pits - no matter how minor.
Look also in areas where the metal would normally exhibit physical wear and 'rounding-off' - if spanking new bluing sits on such areas, you'll probably have a refurbish in your hands.
Look also in areas where the metal would normally exhibit physical wear and 'rounding-off' - if spanking new bluing sits on such areas, you'll probably have a refurbish in your hands.
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