How to make Ed's Red

[monty3006]

Taken from - http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews/edred/original.asp

This is Ed Harris' most recent version of his recipe for Ed's Red, a DIY bore cleaner and gun lubricant. It's also good for use of bicycle chains and other household items. Since I tried this I've switched almost entirely to it for use on my modern guns.

Dave Markowitz

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ed Harris is a well known, knowledgeable gun writer with years of experience. The following article is a re-post of his famous "Ed's Red" Bore Cleaner, which is an inexpensive, effective firearms cleaning agent.

By Ed Harris Rev. 12-27-94

Three years ago I mixed my first "Ed's Red" and I still think the "recipe" is a great idea. If you have never tried it, or maybe lost the recipe, I urge you save this and mix your own. My followers on the FIREARMS Echo think it's the best thing since smokeless powder!

Therefore, I'll summarize the story again for the passing parade that didn't get it the first time...

I originally did this because I used a lot of rifle bore cleaner and was deterred by the high price of commercial products. I knew there was no technical reason why you could not mix an effective bore cleaner using common hardware store ingredients which would be inexpensive, effective, and provide reasonable corrosion protection and adequate lubrication.

The "recipe" is based on proven principles and incorporates two polar and two non-polar ingredients. It is adapted from a formula in Hatcher's Notebook, Frankford Arsenal Cleaner No.18, but substituting equivalent
modern materials. I had the help of an organic chemist in doing this and we knew there would be no "surprises" The original Hatcher recipe called for equal parts of acetone, turpentine, Pratts Astral Oil and sperm oil, and optionally 200 grams of lanolin added per litre.

Pratts Astral oil was nothing more than acid free, deodorized kerosene.

We use K-1 kerosene of the type normally sold for indoor space heaters.

An inexpensive, effective substitute for sperm oil is Dexron (II, IIe or III) automatic transmission fluid. Prior to about 1950 that most ATF was sperm oil based, but during WWII a synthetic was developed for use in precision instruments.

With the great demand for automatic transmission autos after WWII, sperm oil was no longer practical to produce ATF in the quantity demanded, so the synthetic material became the basis for the Dexron fluids we know today. The additives in ATF which include organometallic antioxidants and surfactants, make it highly suitable for our intended purpose.

Hatcher's original formula used gum spirits of turpentine, but
turpentine is expensive and highly flammable. Cheaper and safer is aliphatic mineral spirits, which is a petroleum based "safety solvent" used for thinning oil based paints and as automotive parts cleaner. It is commonly sold under the names "odourless mineral spirits," "Stoddard Solvent" or "Varsol".

There isn't anything in Ed's Red which will chemically remove copper fouling, but it does a better job on carbon residue than anything out there. Several users have told me, that with exclusive use of "ER" does reduce the build-up of copper fouling, because it removes old impacted fouling which is left by other cleaners, reducing the adhesion of
abraded metal to the surface, and leaving a cleaner surface which reduces subsequent fouling. It appears that "ER" will actually remove metal fouling it if you let it "soak" so the surfactants will do the job, though you may have to be patient.

The lanolin is optional. The cleaner works quite well without it. Incorporating the lanolin makes the cleaner easier on the hands, and provides better residual lubrication and corrosion protection if you use the cleaner as a protectant for long term storage. If you want to minimize cost, you can leave the lanolin out and save about $8 per gallon. Mix some yourself. I know it will work as well for you as it does for me.

CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.

1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1

1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent, (aka "Varsol")

1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.

(Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:

Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers are also OK. Do NOT use HDPE, which is breathable because the acetone will evaporate. The
acetone in ER will attack HDPE in about 6 months, making a heck of a mess!

Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved.

I recommend diverting a small quantity, up to 4 ozs. per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix for use as an "ER-compatible" gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the mix.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING Ed's Red Bore Cleaner:

1. Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning is most effective when done while the barrel is still warm to the touch from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale on jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it back into the bore.

2. Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5" strokes and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its
action.

3. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled "rattle battle" guns, leaded revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine use.

4. Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the jag without pulling it back into the bore. If you are finished firing, leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for up to 30 days. If the lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the firearm from rust for up to two years. For longer term storage I recommend use
of Lee Liquid Alox as a Cosmoline substitute. "ER" will readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmoline.

5. Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun. While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to most wood finishes).

6. Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag. First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as described.

7. I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red is used exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary after use of Pyrodex or military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not wiped between shots and shots and are heavily caked from black powder
fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first to break up heavy fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a thorough flush with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which could result from residual moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART
whenever using chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all the residue out.

LABEL AND OBLIGATORY SAFETY WARNINGS:

RIFLE BORE CLEANER CAUTION: HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED.

KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN

1. Flammable mixture. Keep away from heat, sparks or flame.

2. FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call physician immediately. In case of eye contact immediately flush thoroughly with water and call a physician. For skin contact wash thoroughly.

3. Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapours or spray mist. It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labelling. Reports have associated repeated and prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and
nervous system damage. If using in closed armoury vaults lacking forced air ventilation wear respiratory protection meeting NIOSH TC23C or equivalent. Keep container tightly closed when not in use.

This "Recipe" is placed in the public domain, and may be freely distributed provided that it is done so in its entirely with all instructions and safety warnings included herein, and that proper attribution is given to the author.

In Home Mix We Trust,

Regards,

Ed

http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews/edred/original.asp

[monty3006]

Trust me guys ..... This stuff really works.
Makes my shotgun clean and bright.

[cottage cheese]

Trust me guys ..... This stuff really works.
Makes my shotgun clean and bright.

cool!

[eljefe]

Monty,
what are the Indian equivalents of the recipe?
Are you able to get all the stuff as 'labelled' here or are they called otherwise in India? Please let us know.
Best
axx

[Mark]

Asif,

The main ingredients are ATF (automobile auto transmission fluid), acetone and mineral spirits (paint thinner).

1 equal part each. (1,1,1)

There are other things people add, such as lanolin, but that is the main formula right there and works well as is.

[eljefe]

Thanks Mark

[eljefe]

Hi Mark, got some lab grade Acetone.There are 2 types (??) of thinner one for oil /enamel paints and the other for automotive paints-which one ?
Next will be the hunt for ATF-I guess I better try a honda as they are the ones selling the CRV.
Best
Axx

[mundaire]

Asif,

Automatic transmissions were/ are also available as an option on Daewoo Cielo, Honda City, Honda Accord, Maruti Esteem, Maruti Baleno, Hyundai Sonata, Hyundai Elantra, all the Mercedes Benz models, etc. etc.

Auto transmission fluid should therefore be available at any spare parts store of repute, if not ex-stock then they should be able to supply it on order.

Cheers!
Abhijeet

[Mark]

Asif,

Regarding the paint thinner, get the cheaper one.

Same thing with the ATF. I would suspect any auto parts store would have it. FYI, there are 2 main types of ATF and it doesn't really matter but if you have a choice choose a "dexron" over a "type F" trans fluid.

Buy an extra quart of trans fluid to mix up for gun oil (95% ATF, 5% thinner as measured by eye).)I mix it up an oil bottle at a time, fill bottle with ATF and add a couple mm's of mineral spirits.

[eljefe]

ATF was available in any gas station, paint thinner from neighbourhod hardware shop-The el cheapo version.Acetone-I lucked out and got 99% lab grade.
Used a 20ml syringe [what else;(] to mix up a trial batch-the acetone or thinner softened the nozzle!
suggest you guys use a decent measuring cup.Took about 5 min to mix.Tried out as a cleaner with a couple of friends' shotguns.very decent results.Will stick with this one.
Thanks to Mark for explaining the jargon! Have also whipped up a 95ml ATF:5ml Thinner mix for use as gun oil.
Please do use GOOD quality plastic bottles (heavy grade PET) or Amway empties- local stuff-leaks then the tops just give way-the 100 ml mineral water bottles? 'catch' brand seems ok
I'm searching for small brown medication bottles-100ml with appropriate corks-will print out the label and pass it on as
' Ye Old Red's Ed gun cleaner' with my compliments-Have close to a liter of the stuff...Mark II version will have lanolin-as soon as I find it.
Best
Axx

[Mack The Knife]

Very good stuff it was too.

Thanks Asif and Mark.The Auto5 bore sparkled like a mirror.

Mack The Knife

[monty3006]

Told u guys it works like a charm. I've tons of the stuff wit me.

Asif,
best option is to store it in a glass bottle thats brown in colour. acetone attacks plastic very aggresively particularly if u use Reagent grade. Lab grade chemicals are mild. The anaylisis grade work better.

Monish

P.S Mixed a new batch yesterday with MEK( methyl Ethyl Ketone) Lets C how this works.

[eljefe]

Yeah Monish, I learnt very fast that 99.99% lab grade acetone is hell on plastics-One has to use some hi grade HDPE (?) or as I've found , AMWAY zindabad.
Best
Axx

[Mack The Knife]

Mark,

What is the shelf life of Ed's Red? That would tell me how much to make at any one time.

Thanks.

Mack The Knife

[Mark]

Mack The Knife,

If you keep the bottle closed it will last a long time. Instead of "shelf life" think "half life" The only thing I can see happening is if the cap is loose the acetone might evaporate out over time, but you could tell if it did and just add a touch more acetone if it seems as if it is not dissolving residue as it should.

Now I can say that I do not know if it will separate out over time, but a shake or 2 of the bottle would fix that.