Post
by timmy » Sat Dec 31, 2022 2:56 am
Please note that this thread is over ten years old. However, the question is often posed, how to mount and sight in a rifle scope. Because the question is still pertinent, even if the subject of the thread is old, I'd like to mention:
The Midway USA video posted about a page back is a good method, and is the one I use. It works. The more care one takes with doing this, regarding bumping the rifle, the better it works.
This method only works on guns that one can conveniently look through the bore. Some guns, like a semiautomatic Remington 742 with a closed receiver, can't use this method. However, by removing the action cover and the bolt, it can work on an SKS or AK, because one can see through the bore. Most bolt actions and some single shots can also be sighted in with this method.
I don't have a gun vise like Larry Potterfield in the video. I've used my Wife's ironing board and furniture as a rest, along with clothes or sheets so the gun will rest steadily. Note, however, that if you bump the rifle while looking through it or the scope, or adjusting the scope, you will defeat your purpose. Sometimes, one has to go back and forth, sighting and adjusting, to get it right.
Why do this at all? This will save ammunition when sighting in the rifle. The closer you can get the gun to shoot to the point of the scope's aim, the less ammunition you are likely to need when actually firing the rifle for sighting in.
Larry pinned a target on the wall for his sighting in. It seems that I've always had a fence available for this. I pick a spot on the fence as far away as possible, and sight in on a knothole in the wood that is most prominent and easy to see. It really doesn't matter too much what you use as a sight in point, although something round seems easiest to center when looking down the bore seems easiest for me.
Then, when you go to the range, take your first shot at a shorter range. For instance, for a high powered rifle, you might pick 25 meters, rather than a longer range you intend to ultimately use. For a 22, you might choose 10 or 15 meters.
This first shot should be close, but it usually won't be near where you want it, so use as big of a target as you can. One shot is usually enough to tell you whether you are close or not. One or two more should get you close enough for 50 meters (22) or 100 meters or more (high power centerfire) adjustment.
Note that you are not only adjusting the point of aim, you are also verifying that the scope is held solidly in its mounts. You should have carefully torqued down all the screws without over tightening them, and a bit of thread lock or fingernail polish on the threads is always a good idea (but not permanent thread lock!). The gap on the rings (excepting for the old Weaver type rings) should be even on each side. Go back and forth and front to back on each ring, tightening slightly each time, rather than "socking" the screws down in one go and calling it good. Pay attention to the way the scope lies in the rings before tightening, and as you tighten the screws, to make sure the scope isn't getting bent. Make sure the rifle is perpendicular and that the vertical cross hair is perpendicular, too! All of this can be a bit tedious and frustrating, but if you want a perfect sight in, then you have to bite the bullet and do it right!
Once you have adjusted everything and the gun is shooting to a point of aim, shoot a group to make sure that nothing is shooting loose and that the gun is actually able to repeatedly hit to the same point of aim. Some use three shots and some five, but if you really want to be sure, ten shots are best to verify that your job is well done.
“Fanaticism consists of redoubling your efforts when you have forgotten your aim.”
saying in the British Royal Navy