Choice of hunting knife

[Grumpy]

About three years ago I invested an embarrassingly stupid amount of money in what I thought was a very superior hunting knife. It proved to be anything but a practical hunting knife - in fact it was an expensive load of junk . Not as regards quality - it was beautifully made - but utterly useless for hunting purposes. About 18 months ago I lost it.......with barely any regret. I`m pretty sure I threw it away with a pile of deer guts. I`d already decided to replace it and bought a Finnish Puukko as a replacement. I`d only used that a couple of times before it too went missing.......although I`m pretty sure I know where it went ( - and with whom ! ) I used it enough to realise that the straight spine design wasn`t ideal as an all-round hunting knife but it was a lot better than the previous knife......and about one seventh of the price......and just as well made.
Since then I`ve used my original type Leatherman multi-tool......which ( mostly )does the job - it`s useless for skinning and is very uncomfortable in the hand when any effort has to be made.
I`m about to buy a new hunting knife - and being a lot wiser and more knowledgable on the subject have a good idea of what I`m going to get.
I`ve been wondering what other members look for in a hunting knife - whether in actuality or desired ? What particular features or style and which actual knives ?

[Mark]

Once I realized I wasn't going to have to fight any bears over some dead deer my life got much easier!

I like a 4" blade with a somewhat sharp point, I've been partial to clip points for some time now. I like a harder steel but other people who like to lever on joints will prefer a tougher blade that might be a bit softer.

I like to carry a folder instead of a fixed blade in the field. When we're cleaning a bunch of deer back at home I have a bunch of knives to use if one gets too dull.

I usually carry a buck 110 when hunting that I have had for 20 years, if I were to lose it I'd replace it with a blade-tech:
http://www.blade-tech.com/Wegner-Pro-Hu ... r-905.html

However, $170 is a bit steep for a knife that I don't really need anytime soon so I'll wait for one of my kids to grow up a bit bigger and then I can give my old one to one of them first.

[Grumpy]

"Once I realized I wasn't going to have to fight any bears over some dead deer my life got much easier!"

When did you see my old knife Mark ?

[HSharief]

Mark, In the field, for deer, what do you use and to break the pelvic bone and how. In my few years of hunting, I've used my trusted Buck knife to hack at the bone a few times and split it up to get the guts out. I'm sure there's a better method.

Grumpy, please pardon me as I'm interested in learning what will be a better hunting knife too, and one that will not break the bank.

[Grumpy]

I`ve found that there is no substitute for a bone saw - trying to hack away with a knife is a tedious business and fraught with hygiene problems. Dedicated bone saws are very inexpensive and compact in size.
As far as cost is concerned, value for money is a major priority - I`m not going to spend £300 ( c.IR 25,500 - $600 ) again on another knife that might get lost - and the knives I have shortlisted are all sensibly priced.
I prefer a fixed blade for field use Mark because I`ve found that when it is difficult to clean a knife properly blood can promote rusting in even stainless steels - and there are a lot more nooks and crannies in a folder. I also tend to abuse my knives and a folder that doesn`t allow twisting of the blade under extreme load has to be decidely hefty......and have heavy steel or titanium liners - brass just isn`t tough enough.
I like a pretty hard steel as well ....... but with some qualifications. Many Scandinavians reckon that a Rockwell hardness of around 58 is about the best compromise. The problem with the really hard steels is that they can be real so-and-sos to sharpen. Bob Doziers preferred D2 holds an edge for a very long time - but would be a real bug*3r to try and resharpen in the field. D2 is a carbon steel as well, not stainless.........albeit a pretty esoteric carbon steel.

[eljefe]

I would pick a blade profile like the wenger G-10 , but in a fixed blade...I like a little belly in my blades.
Dozier and D2 are fine if you have a dedicated sharpening facility-how about RC 0f 50 max? Strop it a few times across an improvised honing steel/pocket steel if in the field?
Spyderco's Bill Moran is an impressive design -Mack The Knife, any feedback? seems like VFM for 60 bucks US.Its on my wish list, As is an F2 from Fallkniven!
Best
Axx

[Risala]

Asif,

Is the F2 the Thor,your all time fav,bloody expensive though worth the moolah

Me thinks will stick with the Bhojpuri for the moment,will it bring it for the next PHG trip.

Sanjay

[eljefe]

Sorry, old neurons not firing, meant H1 or F1
Not the thor--thats for the sabers at dawn, varlet!
http://www.fallkniven.com/h1.htm

Best
Axx

[WyoJoe]

I use a small Kabar for general hunting. Here are a couple of my favorites from the others.

This is a Wyoming knife. It looks odd but is really easy to use & is one of the best for field dressing and skinning.



This is an Alaskan Ulu knife. It works great for skinning and general use chores.

[eljefe]

Hi Wyo,
Yes, seen the Wyoming knife and handled it, but no field use.
That Ulu knife? Thats why I said I like a lil belly in my knife Seen local butchers use a variant to skin sheep -make it look like a freakin assembly line!
best
Axx

[Grumpy]

The F1 is actually a pretty good form for a hunting knife ........ considering it is marketed as a `survival`knife. Follows the Puukko style quite closely except for a slight drop point. Laminated steel blade and good value for money as well.
The H1 I`m not so sure about - it has a small clip point, and a little reverse curve on the spine. The original laminated steel version is almost half as expensive again as the F1 and the 3G laminated knife more than twice the price of the F1.......
The F2 is the fish filleting knife......and, frankly, not the best form for its role ( IMO ) as the blade is too wide.
The `Thor` is the NL1 and is a damn great pig-sticker with an almost 10" long blade. It`s a hanging on the wall type knife because it has no application......except for sticking Pigs, fighting Polar Bears or hammering in nails.
Until a few months ago a Fallkniven would have been pretty high on my list of candidates.

[GasramGandu]

The Wenger that Mark posted on looks a lot like the Spyderco Cara Cara. I carry one of these, pretty useful at 23 bucks!

http://www.knivesplus.com/spydercobyrdk ... y03gp.html

[kanwar76]

The Wenger that Mark posted on looks a lot like the Spyderco Cara Cara. I carry one of these, pretty useful at 23 bucks!

http://www.knivesplus.com/spydercobyrdk ... y03gp.html

Even I've one.. Nice knife..

-Inder

[Mack The Knife]

Grumpy,

My idea of a hunting knife would be along the lines of a Hattori (as shown below) or a Spyderco Bill Moran Drop Point.

A Fallkniven Idun would always be on the top of my list. Why not have a look at the cheaper spin-offs of the Bushcraft knives available in England.













However, if you are determined to only use "I don't give a damn if I loose it or break it" type of knife, look at the Moras. I for one would happily use one if that was all I had. http://www.frosts.se/index_2_uk.html
http://www.heinnie.com/cgi-bin/heinnie_ ... m&cart_id=

Mack The Knife

P.S.: I would go for a blade that is 3.5" to 4" in length.

[Mack The Knife]

Mark,

I will third the suggestion of having a look at the Byrd Cara Cara. Especially the ones with the G10 scales. No S30V blade but the Chinese equivalent off 440 C is pretty good and I have no complaints about the fit and finish. Absolute value for money knives and I would buy more if I could.

Mack The Knife