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This is the place for discussing gun care, custom work, repairs and ask related technical questions.
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brihacharan
- Old Timer
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by brihacharan » Tue Sep 29, 2015 6:06 pm
anoop wrote:Dear Briha ji, yet another tip is to use black permanent board marker ink. It gives a fair shine and lasts also. Costs just Rs 15 / - per bottle. Process for applying remains same as described by you. I have applied on my polaris. It appears fine. Anoop
This is of temporary use only because any contact with mineral oil will rub off the marker ink
Briha
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essdee1972
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- Location: Mumbai, Maharashtra
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by essdee1972 » Wed Sep 30, 2015 10:38 am
I got a little ambitious, after the barrel of my Precihole developed some rust (rifle kept in storage while some civil work was going on, etc. etc.). I tried using WD40 and Scotch Brite, managed to get the whole bluing off.
Used Ballistol blue, with all prescribed processes. I even used the Ballistol degreaser to wipe the barrel before bluing, not trusting the local surgical spirit. BUT......... the barrel keeps developing a coat of rust. It absorbs all the oil I can throw at it, so I actually need to lather oil on it every few days........
PLEASE HELP!!!!!
Cheers!
EssDee
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In a polity, each citizen is to possess his own arms, which are not supplied or owned by the state. — Aristotle
Get up, stand up, Stand up for your rights. Get up, stand up, Don't give up the fight. ― Bob Marley
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brihacharan
- Old Timer
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by brihacharan » Wed Sep 30, 2015 11:01 am
essdee1972 wrote:I got a little ambitious, after the barrel of my Precihole developed some rust (rifle kept in storage while some civil work was going on, etc. etc.). I tried using WD40 and Scotch Brite, managed to get the whole bluing off.
Used Ballistol blue, with all prescribed processes. I even used the Ballistol degreaser to wipe the barrel before bluing, not trusting the local surgical spirit. BUT......... the barrel keeps developing a coat of rust. It absorbs all the oil I can throw at it, so I actually need to lather oil on it every few days........
PLEASE HELP!!!!!
Frankly I've had no such problem....hence analyzing the issue it could be:
1. Allow 15 to 20 mins for the Ballistol to work on the metal parts where applied...
2. Wipe thoroughly with wet / moist cloth to remove any remnants of Ballistol....
3. Apply 3 in 1 Oil on the applied parts
4. Do not store the AR in any cloth / canvass / rexin gun case - as moisture gets trapped & does its damage...
5. Use a loose fitting plastic sleeve to store you AR....
Briha
PS: My ARs have retained the bluing w/o rust for over a year....of course periodic wiping with oil soaked cloth is recommended...
Briha
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essdee1972
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by essdee1972 » Wed Sep 30, 2015 11:17 am
I used sewing machine oil. And the AR is stored openly, so it gets a little brush-off every day when the maid dusts all the stuff (she does dry dusting with one of those fluorescent pink "electrostatic" jhadoos).
I think maybe I didn't leave the Ballistol for sufficiant time. I did notice a (almost) uniform blacking of the surface. I think I need to do it again. I ran out of Ballistol. I think I'll try the Perma Blue this time.
Cheers!
EssDee
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________
In a polity, each citizen is to possess his own arms, which are not supplied or owned by the state. — Aristotle
Get up, stand up, Stand up for your rights. Get up, stand up, Don't give up the fight. ― Bob Marley
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aadhaulya
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by aadhaulya » Wed Sep 30, 2015 2:18 pm
essdee1972 wrote:I used sewing machine oil. And the AR is stored openly, so it gets a little brush-off every day when the maid dusts all the stuff (she does dry dusting with one of those fluorescent pink "electrostatic" jhadoos).
I think maybe I didn't leave the Ballistol for sufficiant time. I did notice a (almost) uniform blacking of the surface. I think I need to do it again. I ran out of Ballistol. I think I'll try the Perma Blue this time.
SD,
There is a possibility that the rust has not been removed totally. You probable have to use an emery paper starting from 220 grit followed by 400, 600, and finally 800. Than rub it off using a rubbing compound to give it a mirror finish.
After that follow the process of bluing and repeat as Brihaji has suggested. It should give you a good finish.
The bluing of the edges of my revolver doesn't last long because every day it is removed and put in a tight fitting holster two times. One when I go to drop my daughter to school as I am wearing a T shirt I use a sling type holster and second is a belt holster when I go out.
I buy the Perma blue 90 ml for $ 7.9 + shipping about the same amount from ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perma-Blue-3-oz ... 20e71f876f
It takes about 2 weeks for delivery.
I would also like to know what is this "elecrtostatic' jhadoo, as I have never heard about it.
Atul
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GNV
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by GNV » Wed Sep 30, 2015 11:30 pm
Is this rubbing compound the same as one used to remove scratches from automobiles surfaces or something different?
The electrostatic jhadoo is nothing but a brushing tool/ broom made up of plastic/synthetic fibers which are electrostatic nature. They are also called dusters. When these dusters are rubbed with hand they develop static electricity on the surface of the dusting fibers and this attracts the dust particles when you pass the duster over the articles you want to dust. This static electricity remains for a while only. After dusting the articles if you shake the duster the dust particles would fall down.
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aadhaulya
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by aadhaulya » Wed Sep 30, 2015 11:40 pm
GNV wrote:Is this rubbing compound the same as one used to remove scratches from automobiles surfaces or something different?
It is the same rubbing compound and is used to remove scratches left by the emery paper. Though the scratches would be very minor and barely or not noticeable after the 800 grit paper but you can notice the difference after rubbing
The electrostatic jhadoo is nothing but a brushing tool/ broom made up of plastic/synthetic fibers which are electrostatic nature. They are also called dusters. When these dusters are rubbed with hand they develop static electricity on the surface of the dusting fibers and this attracts the dust particles when you pass the duster over the articles you want to dust. This static electricity remains for a while only. After dusting the articles if you shake the duster the dust particles would fall down.
Thanks for the information I will try to find one.
Atul
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GNV
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by GNV » Thu Oct 01, 2015 12:16 am
These dusters are available everywhere. They don't look fancy. They are even sold by street hawkers. I'll get one tomorrow and post a photo of it. However they don't last long. You'll have to replace them frequently.
Thanks for the information about rubbing paste.
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essdee1972
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by essdee1972 » Thu Oct 01, 2015 10:05 am
Thanks for the info Atul!
I took a cloth soaked with WD40 to the barrel yesterday, and discovered that maybe I used too much Ballistol. Took the rust out slowly. Now I have reached a stage where the cloth does not get any brown rust on it. The barrel also looks close to original. So I've soaked it in GSmith's gun oil. Let me see if the rust comes back. Then I'll do the sandpaper thing.
Can you remove the barrel of a Precihole at home? I've got a simple vice and the normal collection of pliers and wrenches. But I don't want to try unless I can be sure of putting it back properly.
Cheers!
EssDee
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________
In a polity, each citizen is to possess his own arms, which are not supplied or owned by the state. — Aristotle
Get up, stand up, Stand up for your rights. Get up, stand up, Don't give up the fight. ― Bob Marley
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GNV
- Shooting true
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- Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 4:30 am
- Location: Tadepalligudem, Andhra Pradesh.
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by GNV » Thu Oct 01, 2015 11:16 am
@ essdee1972
If you look up my post in Gunsmithing section," How to disassemble and Reassemble Precihole Air Rifle" you will find how easy it is to remove the barrel.
https://www.indiansforguns.com/viewtopi ... 22&t=23444
Last edited by
GNV on Thu Oct 01, 2015 11:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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ganeshn
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by ganeshn » Thu Oct 01, 2015 8:30 pm
Its best to remove rust with coke or "pitambari" a brand of silver/brassware cleaner, after wetting it dissolves rust like magic(chelating agents)
You simply cannot degrease with spirit, instead use a soft paper towel with WD40, after a couple of iteration you are good.but avoid it if you want to use the coke or pitambri immediately.
I have used pitambri with 600 grit on my car rims with great results, as tubeless over a period develop leak on rims due to blistering(rusting).
Keep your stuff away from paper(most of them are acidic), cardboard,cotton cloth, foam as they absorb moisture.
A closed cell foam is ideal.
Rubbing/cutting compound is a fine sandpaper in a paste form, handy when using a dual action sander.
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aadhaulya
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by aadhaulya » Thu Oct 01, 2015 10:48 pm
ganeshn wrote:You simply cannot degrease with spirit, instead use a soft paper towel with WD40, after a couple of iteration you are good.but avoid it if you want to use the coke or pitambri immediately.
Ganeshn, are you sure that you can't degrease with spirit because I am using it regularly and it has worked fine for me. I also doubt that WD 40 would work as a degreaser.
Rubbing/cutting compound is a fine sandpaper in a paste form, handy when using a dual action sander.
You are correct that rubbing/ cutting compound is a very fine emery compound. But the dual action sander is normally used with sand paper to remove paint and to smoothen out the surface before painting or to remove rust.
A portable polisher can be used for rubbing/ cutting for large surfaces as it saves the time and effort involved.
Atul
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GNV
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by GNV » Thu Oct 01, 2015 11:26 pm
A portable polisher can be used for rubbing/ cutting for large surfaces as it saves the time and effort involved.
Atul
Would it be okay to use a Dremel Mototool with felt polishing attachment with rubbing compound to do the final polishing before bluing ?
Regards,
GNV
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aadhaulya
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by aadhaulya » Thu Oct 01, 2015 11:35 pm
GNV wrote:Would it be okay to use a Dremel Mototool with felt polishing attachment with rubbing compound to do the final polishing before bluing ?
Regards,
GNV
Yes GNV, a felt polishing pad can be used, but old timers like me prefer to do it by hand. (I am from the Automobile trade) And you have to remember to degrease it thoroughly before bluing.
Atul
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ganeshn
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by ganeshn » Fri Oct 02, 2015 1:27 am
aadhaulya wrote:
Ganeshn, are you sure that you can't degrease with spirit because I am using it regularly and it has worked fine for me. I also doubt that WD 40 would work as a degreaser.
Sure, may be you are picking up dirt marks and oil as in fatty acids and not grease as in Automobile trade, giving you the clean glistening looks with spirit.
oil is to water as spirit is to grease, they are incompatible
you haven't degrease until the grease is stripped off, i.e., the surface is unprepared for blueing.
Last edited by
ganeshn on Fri Oct 02, 2015 1:43 am, edited 1 time in total.