Post
by Safarigent » Sat Aug 08, 2015 1:57 pm
I was worried about the rains and landslides plaguing the area on my way in. After interminable hours on the roads in heavy rains but no landslides(thank god) i finally reached Devprayag. Got down to the Forest Rest House where the good doctor was waiting. A couple of things were found wanting in the place. A driving time of almost 1 hour to the village where the kill took place; the rooms were in disrepair. The false ceiling had broken down over a fifth of the area and there was no running water in the forest rest house. Plus very very smelly bathrooms. Anyway, a quick change later we were rattling away up the mountain to Bhatkot. The area we were passing filled me with a sense of foreboding. This wasnt going to be an easy affair(as the next few days proved it). The roads were narrow, we were negotiating rock falls regularly. Ledges of rock a few feet over our head and one spot where the path too was disintegrating and all the team held their breath everytime we crossed it in the the next few days. After parking the jeep on the road we went up to the village. Sweat and trembling muscles were an everyday feature we got used to. The spot where the kill was made, meeting the family members, understanding where the body was dragged and hidden; i was brought up to speed fast and in no time we ascended the machan. Odourless mosquito repellent came in handy. The wait began in earnest..... Its incredible to see how your senses become magnified. You hear every small sound which you normally wont. You feel small changes in wind and worry about your scent drifting towards the bait. Your movements become slow and deliberate. You also start attuning your ears to the jungle, that great early warning system announcing the arrival of a big cat. Langurs, babblers, dogs etc. as the darkness starts cloaking all things around you in its sombre coat, the pigeons fly home to roost, the black partridges start making themselves heard. These too quieten down. The stars appear, though you cant crane your neck up to see them, not through a mango trees canopy at the very least. The fireflies start flitting around, providing you with something to do. Count them. See aerial duels being fought, remember your childhood days. Sitting on a machan, immobile, trying to forget your aching back or the cramp down your side a firefly is your best friend. Suddenly, the goat bleats a bit louder, more panicked! Everything disappears, a leopard is dancing in the uncertan shadows of the solitary lantana bush nearby in the weak light of a new moon. But alas, its nothing. Your heartbeats take a moment to settle down. You gulp a gob of saliva down your parched throat and fall back in your reverie. Eventually, time is up and we call the forest rangers to come get us and the goat. Walking back to the village, through small fields full of crops and on narrow tracks is not as great as it sounds. Bringing up the back, i am constantly looking behind, flashing my flashlight behind me often, while also watching my footsteps. A bottle of water for me, a cup of tea for the good doc. A regal repast of chapatis and okra with the forest rangers while we discuss the next days plan of action and before we know it, its sleeping time. But no bed. A rajai is procured and spread on the floor which becomes my bed for the next two days and nights. Using the loo before sleeping is an experience all by itself. Indian style water closets take a day or two to get used to. Bolting the door securely we finally fall asleep. In this deadly game of chess, old spots got the first round.......
To Excellence through Diligence.