Benne, we're talking about tar on mainspring, not in the compression chamber. Remember, tar is applied ONLY on the mainspring. The sticky nature helps it stay on the spring even during violent movement. Also it definitely smells like bitumen, atleast mine does.
But i don't see the need to mix moly with tar for this purpose. It'll go too thin. Just moly coat the entire mainspring & then apply a fine tar layer on top of it. I just run it through my fist & stops when it sticks. This will dampen the buzz.
There is no reason for such a minute quantity to get inside the comp chamber & cause dieseling. That's just not its purpose here.
A piston-tube length & the tight piston seal(along with thrust bearing, if any) stands between comp chamber & rest of the receiver. This is what i can understand.
Best brand of lubricant for rifle
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estousandy
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Re: Best brand of lubricant for rifle
Last edited by estousandy on Wed Dec 10, 2014 5:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Basu
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Re: Best brand of lubricant for rifle
Dear benne,
Though it is called as tar but it does not look so.
It is a highly sticky heavy substance which will never go off the spring.
I mix it with moly , just to ensure that it does not impair velocity.
This mixture is only used on spring just to dampen buzz.
There is hardly any chance that it would migrate to stroke chamber.
Basu
Though it is called as tar but it does not look so.
It is a highly sticky heavy substance which will never go off the spring.
I mix it with moly , just to ensure that it does not impair velocity.
This mixture is only used on spring just to dampen buzz.
There is hardly any chance that it would migrate to stroke chamber.
Basu
Not all those wander , are lost...............
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mercury
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Re: Best brand of lubricant for rifle
the" tar " is similar to heavy duty bearing / gear grease and maybe referred to as tar because of its similarity in appearance. it is thick but very slippery and very sticky ....reason that it is not thrown around when applied on the spring.
presence of / percentage of hydrocarbons in grease is valid ; i am no expert to comment on it but i am sure Maccari with his vast knowledge would have put together a safe and efficient product. the ticket is in the application...where and how much.
all lubricants...when used in air rifles ...will ignite because of the high temperatures generated...so the need for lubes that can with stand the temperature. MoS2 mixtures (Molybdenum Disulfide....molly )...depending on the % of molly.... have proved to be effective as i am sure some other greases in the market. problem is the cost !! i have used Mollykote Paste ( GR i think ) which is very reasonably priced but has a low percentage of molly with quite satisfactory results in low powered guns.
reason that Mollykote Molly powder intrigues me.....98% would not just make it super slippery but one can add that little bit more to the internals with no fear of dieseling.
Basu....mixing molly with tar may defeat the very purpose you set out to rectify...dampen. whether the "stickiness" could be comprised is also a thought. anyways if you are satisfied..i would suggest a fine piston sleeve to ensure the tar/ molly mixture stays out of the chamber.
presence of / percentage of hydrocarbons in grease is valid ; i am no expert to comment on it but i am sure Maccari with his vast knowledge would have put together a safe and efficient product. the ticket is in the application...where and how much.
all lubricants...when used in air rifles ...will ignite because of the high temperatures generated...so the need for lubes that can with stand the temperature. MoS2 mixtures (Molybdenum Disulfide....molly )...depending on the % of molly.... have proved to be effective as i am sure some other greases in the market. problem is the cost !! i have used Mollykote Paste ( GR i think ) which is very reasonably priced but has a low percentage of molly with quite satisfactory results in low powered guns.
reason that Mollykote Molly powder intrigues me.....98% would not just make it super slippery but one can add that little bit more to the internals with no fear of dieseling.
Basu....mixing molly with tar may defeat the very purpose you set out to rectify...dampen. whether the "stickiness" could be comprised is also a thought. anyways if you are satisfied..i would suggest a fine piston sleeve to ensure the tar/ molly mixture stays out of the chamber.
Throw me to the wolves....I will return leading the pack.
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bennedose
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Re: Best brand of lubricant for rifle
Basuda - the power in those compressed spings is very great and the power is released in microseconds - enough to scrape metal particles if there is no lubrication. I doubt if even the most viscous lubricant will fail to get atomized to a small degree with ach shot and settle somewhere else and then gradually find its way into the front of the piston.
Ever since some IFGian sent me Cardew and Cardew I have converted to the Cardew-springer religion. Competitive shooters who need accuracy and consistency, and who are pracitsing using springers must not use any hydrocarbon/alcohol based agents. Only Moly. They need less power but consistent accuracy.
Plinkers who are power crazy, and for them a small amount of dieseling (as described by Saint Cardew) is necessary and accpetable - albeit with some variability in power and accuracy
Ever since some IFGian sent me Cardew and Cardew I have converted to the Cardew-springer religion. Competitive shooters who need accuracy and consistency, and who are pracitsing using springers must not use any hydrocarbon/alcohol based agents. Only Moly. They need less power but consistent accuracy.
Plinkers who are power crazy, and for them a small amount of dieseling (as described by Saint Cardew) is necessary and accpetable - albeit with some variability in power and accuracy
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brihacharan
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Re: Best brand of lubricant for rifle
Hi Guys!
The importance of lubricating an Air Gun can never be underestimated - All of us know that...
However 'how does one go about' while understanding the process is 'important'....
A bit of research on this subject has revealed the 'Dos & Donts' - coming from one of the world's authorities on the subject...
I take this opportunity to share with you all!!!
AIR-GUN LUBRICATION
B.B. Pelletier aka Tom Gaylord
This report addresses the following:
• Identifying and lubricating high-stress parts
• Lubricating with moly
• Lubricating triggers
• Lubrication intervals
• Lubricating mainsprings
• General lubrication
• Preserving the air gun with oil
Well, the immediate response we got to the first installment of this report made it one of the all-time favorites. In that report, we looked just at the piston seal, which I said was half of the lubrication solution for a spring gun. Today, we’ll look at everything else.
PARTS UNDER HIGH STRESS
The moving parts of a spring gun are the power plant parts, the trigger group and either the barrel, when it’s used as to cock the gun or the cocking mechanism if the gun isn’t a break-barrel. When air guns were simpler and less stressed, all of these parts could be lubricated with gun oil or lithium grease. But today’s guns are stressed to higher limits and generally need something more specific and better-suited to each application.
The high-stress parts are the piston, spring guides, mainspring, cocking shoe or other linkage contact with the piston, barrel pivot bolt and the sear. Any part that has several pounds of force exerted on it should be considered a high-stress part. In a vintage gun, I still use lithium grease on most of these parts. But for the sear, where I want the minimum resistance, and for the pivot bolt, which takes the force of cocking, I’ll use grease that’s impregnated with molybdenum disulfide. Moly is not grease by itself. It’s a metal that, in the form molybdenum disulfide, is a solid lubricant that bonds with metal surfaces and provides a low coefficient of friction between the treated surfaces. It’s highly resistant to wear and remains in place for a very long time.
Dr. BEEMAN warned against using moly on triggers, as it would make them too slippery to work safely. I was an early proponent of applying moly to sears. But — and this is extremely important as the trigger has to be adjusted perfectly, or it will become unsafe. No trigger should ever rely on friction to make it safe. It should rely on geometry for its safe operation; and if it cannot depend on that, then lubricating it with moly is very unsafe. I’ve had several improperly adjusted air gun trigger sears slip and allow the guns to fire without warning, so Dr. BEEMAN’S caution is well-taken.
The benefits of using moly in the right places are reductions in the cocking effort and in the trigger-pull. But it takes experience to know when to apply moly and when not to. The only way to get this experience is to lubricate many air-guns and watch them as they perform. A GOOD OIL for all other applications is RWS Spring Cylinder Oil. It can be used for general lubrication of hinge points and even the mainspring, itself. Use something like this when I recommend using oil.
LUBRICATION INTERVALS
Once lubricated with moly, the job will last for years and even decades before needing lubrication again. Greases like those with lithium in them are more prone to dry out and harden. They must be monitored. You can do this by eye if the greased part is visible — such as the mainspring, by looking through the cocking slot. Or, you can do it by watching the gun’s performance. This is done both by feel and with a chronograph. Here is yet another reason to own a chronograph, to evaluate the health of your spring guns.
MAINSPRING LUBRICATION
No part inside your spring gun rubs against other metal parts as much as the mainspring. So, some oil is better than no oil. But oil isn’t the best lubricant for mainsprings.
A coating of moly paste is much better. Make sure you get it around the entire circumference of the spring wire, because the spring rubs the guides on the inside of its coils…just as the outside of its coils rubs the inside of the piston.
Mainsprings are one part where some experience comes in handy. If your gun is lower powered
(450 to 520 fps) I like lithium grease the best. When it migrates forward into the compression chamber, it doesn’t detonate in these guns. Instead, it lubricates the piston seal; and because it does, I use it heavily on these mainsprings.
In more powerful guns (650 fps upwards) I switch to moly for mainsprings. When the grease that suspends the moly moves forward, it can cause problems, but since I lubricate very lightly with this grease, there’s seldom a problem. That is what I mean by experience making the difference.
WHAT ABOUT GAS SPRINGS?
Gas rams or gas struts, to use their colloquial terms, don’t need the same kind of lubrication as steel springs. The gas piston unit itself is lubricated internally, so you never have to do anything with it. And many of them have synthetic bearings on the outside that suspend the moving parts, isolating them from the rest on the inside of the air-gun.
THE REST OF THE GUN
Once again, experience is needed, but it boils down to using moly on high-stress parts like the base block spacers on a break barrel and oil on the common linkage parts.
LUBING THE BARREL?
The barrel doesn’t need to be lubricated. Spring guns are always expelling tiny droplets of oil and grease into the bore. This is enough lubrication for the bore if lead pellets are used. I can’t tell you what to use when lead-free pellets are fired because each material has its own requirements. I would contact the manufacturers for that. Not the dealers — the makers of the pellets.
ONE LAST THING
Finally, you’ll want to wipe down the entire gun…metal, plastic and wood…with Ballistol to protect against corrosion and damage from acidic fingerprints. This is the way to store your guns for a long time without worrying about rust. Check them from time to time and renew the external oil coat as needed.
I do hope that you find this information useful....
Briha
The importance of lubricating an Air Gun can never be underestimated - All of us know that...
However 'how does one go about' while understanding the process is 'important'....
A bit of research on this subject has revealed the 'Dos & Donts' - coming from one of the world's authorities on the subject...
I take this opportunity to share with you all!!!
AIR-GUN LUBRICATION
B.B. Pelletier aka Tom Gaylord
This report addresses the following:
• Identifying and lubricating high-stress parts
• Lubricating with moly
• Lubricating triggers
• Lubrication intervals
• Lubricating mainsprings
• General lubrication
• Preserving the air gun with oil
Well, the immediate response we got to the first installment of this report made it one of the all-time favorites. In that report, we looked just at the piston seal, which I said was half of the lubrication solution for a spring gun. Today, we’ll look at everything else.
PARTS UNDER HIGH STRESS
The moving parts of a spring gun are the power plant parts, the trigger group and either the barrel, when it’s used as to cock the gun or the cocking mechanism if the gun isn’t a break-barrel. When air guns were simpler and less stressed, all of these parts could be lubricated with gun oil or lithium grease. But today’s guns are stressed to higher limits and generally need something more specific and better-suited to each application.
The high-stress parts are the piston, spring guides, mainspring, cocking shoe or other linkage contact with the piston, barrel pivot bolt and the sear. Any part that has several pounds of force exerted on it should be considered a high-stress part. In a vintage gun, I still use lithium grease on most of these parts. But for the sear, where I want the minimum resistance, and for the pivot bolt, which takes the force of cocking, I’ll use grease that’s impregnated with molybdenum disulfide. Moly is not grease by itself. It’s a metal that, in the form molybdenum disulfide, is a solid lubricant that bonds with metal surfaces and provides a low coefficient of friction between the treated surfaces. It’s highly resistant to wear and remains in place for a very long time.
Dr. BEEMAN warned against using moly on triggers, as it would make them too slippery to work safely. I was an early proponent of applying moly to sears. But — and this is extremely important as the trigger has to be adjusted perfectly, or it will become unsafe. No trigger should ever rely on friction to make it safe. It should rely on geometry for its safe operation; and if it cannot depend on that, then lubricating it with moly is very unsafe. I’ve had several improperly adjusted air gun trigger sears slip and allow the guns to fire without warning, so Dr. BEEMAN’S caution is well-taken.
The benefits of using moly in the right places are reductions in the cocking effort and in the trigger-pull. But it takes experience to know when to apply moly and when not to. The only way to get this experience is to lubricate many air-guns and watch them as they perform. A GOOD OIL for all other applications is RWS Spring Cylinder Oil. It can be used for general lubrication of hinge points and even the mainspring, itself. Use something like this when I recommend using oil.
LUBRICATION INTERVALS
Once lubricated with moly, the job will last for years and even decades before needing lubrication again. Greases like those with lithium in them are more prone to dry out and harden. They must be monitored. You can do this by eye if the greased part is visible — such as the mainspring, by looking through the cocking slot. Or, you can do it by watching the gun’s performance. This is done both by feel and with a chronograph. Here is yet another reason to own a chronograph, to evaluate the health of your spring guns.
MAINSPRING LUBRICATION
No part inside your spring gun rubs against other metal parts as much as the mainspring. So, some oil is better than no oil. But oil isn’t the best lubricant for mainsprings.
A coating of moly paste is much better. Make sure you get it around the entire circumference of the spring wire, because the spring rubs the guides on the inside of its coils…just as the outside of its coils rubs the inside of the piston.
Mainsprings are one part where some experience comes in handy. If your gun is lower powered
(450 to 520 fps) I like lithium grease the best. When it migrates forward into the compression chamber, it doesn’t detonate in these guns. Instead, it lubricates the piston seal; and because it does, I use it heavily on these mainsprings.
In more powerful guns (650 fps upwards) I switch to moly for mainsprings. When the grease that suspends the moly moves forward, it can cause problems, but since I lubricate very lightly with this grease, there’s seldom a problem. That is what I mean by experience making the difference.
WHAT ABOUT GAS SPRINGS?
Gas rams or gas struts, to use their colloquial terms, don’t need the same kind of lubrication as steel springs. The gas piston unit itself is lubricated internally, so you never have to do anything with it. And many of them have synthetic bearings on the outside that suspend the moving parts, isolating them from the rest on the inside of the air-gun.
THE REST OF THE GUN
Once again, experience is needed, but it boils down to using moly on high-stress parts like the base block spacers on a break barrel and oil on the common linkage parts.
LUBING THE BARREL?
The barrel doesn’t need to be lubricated. Spring guns are always expelling tiny droplets of oil and grease into the bore. This is enough lubrication for the bore if lead pellets are used. I can’t tell you what to use when lead-free pellets are fired because each material has its own requirements. I would contact the manufacturers for that. Not the dealers — the makers of the pellets.
ONE LAST THING
Finally, you’ll want to wipe down the entire gun…metal, plastic and wood…with Ballistol to protect against corrosion and damage from acidic fingerprints. This is the way to store your guns for a long time without worrying about rust. Check them from time to time and renew the external oil coat as needed.
I do hope that you find this information useful....
Briha
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estousandy
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Re: Best brand of lubricant for rifle
Briha, that's a very informative post. He didn't mention anything about tar though but the idea is there.
Moly paste & moly grease are different. And ARs need the paste, never the grease.
As he said, the applied quantity of moly/tar is far too less to create any kind of combustion inside the chamber. The coatings have to be too fine coz that's all it needs.
Moly paste & moly grease are different. And ARs need the paste, never the grease.
As he said, the applied quantity of moly/tar is far too less to create any kind of combustion inside the chamber. The coatings have to be too fine coz that's all it needs.
with guns we are citizens, without we are subjects
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brihacharan
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Re: Best brand of lubricant for rifle
I think "Tar" is Maccari's creationestousandy wrote: Briha, that's a very informative post. He didn't mention anything about tar though but the idea is there.
Moly paste & moly grease are different. And ARs need the paste, never the grease.
As he said, the applied quantity of moly/tar is far too less to create any kind of combustion inside the chamber. The coatings have to be too fine coz that's all it needs.
Its thickness may dampen the Twang, Vibration, Sound etc....beyond that I don't think it contributes anything favorable to the AR
Consider this:
I once asked a Lube Expert (consultant to a leading International Lube manufacturer) about an ideal lube for ARs...
He gave me a sample (200ml) made in his lab....saying this lube protects a heavy automobile piston that performs over 3000 strokes per minute & lasts for 3 months with top ups after every 1500kms run. How many strokes does your AR's piston do in a month.....I said may be (considering a hard core shooter) at the rate of 200 pellets a week = 800 pellets a month = 9600 pellets a year
He said that means 9600 strokes in a year....Whereas the auto piston performs that much in 3 to 4 minutes
All my 3 ARs use his formulation & till date I have had no reason to complain about their performance
Briha
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mercury
- One of Us (Nirvana)
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Re: Best brand of lubricant for rifle
very true Bennedose.....and even though one can stress repeatedly on "fine coating" , there will always be some some lube that can sneak past the seal on to the chamber. piston sleeves...besides other uses.... can at best control and is not a solution. the best one can do is control the level of dieseling and use this " controlled dieseling " to ones advantage.bennedose wrote:Basuda - the power in those compressed spings is very great and the power is released in microseconds - enough to scrape metal particles if there is no lubrication. I doubt if even the most viscous lubricant will fail to get atomized to a small degree with ach shot and settle somewhere else and then gradually find its way into the front of the piston.
so how does one go about achieving this " controlled dieseling "..... besides the time tested application of different types of appropriate lubes in different locations of the internals ; metal to metal , synthetic to metal etc etc... i would think by using dry lubes. lubes which are available in powder form . MoS2 ( molly ) and graphite are two that come to mind but i am sure there are a few others. the problem is the cost...prohibitive.
which bring me to the second point you raised about the carrier used to convert molly/ graphite into paste / grease. i would believe it is not the molly that is igniting but the carrier used which is. this carrier would contain the hydrocarbons you mention. point is there are many molly pastes available in the market and not all would have an ideal percentage of molly...having more of the carrier element that induces dieseling. ( i almost picked up an aerosol tin of molly spray in City Market, which on closer inspection had 5% of molly content )
Tar is a Maccari preparation . what i think needs to be appreciated is that many of his products were offered as diy alternatives to expensive tunes which was the norm of the early years. heavy tar for example with its ability to dampen twang , vibration etc... a much cheaper alternative to custom made springs/ guides... improved handling leading to better accuracy.
Throw me to the wolves....I will return leading the pack.
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bennedose
- Shooting true
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Re: Best brand of lubricant for rifle
LOL that is a great idea - I think I will try some heavy duty engine oil for fun.The newer synthetic oils are less likely to burn.brihacharan wrote:[
I think "Tar" is Maccari's creation
Its thickness may dampen the Twang, Vibration, Sound etc....beyond that I don't think it contributes anything favorable to the AR
Consider this:
I once asked a Lube Expert (consultant to a leading International Lube manufacturer) about an ideal lube for ARs...
He gave me a sample (200ml) made in his lab....saying this lube protects a heavy automobile piston that performs over 3000 strokes per minute & lasts for 3 months with top ups after every 1500kms run. How many strokes does your AR's piston do in a month.....I said may be (considering a hard core shooter) at the rate of 200 pellets a week = 800 pellets a month = 9600 pellets a year
He said that means 9600 strokes in a year....Whereas the auto piston performs that much in 3 to 4 minutes
All my 3 ARs use his formulation & till date I have had no reason to complain about their performance
Briha
-
brihacharan
- Old Timer
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- Joined: Fri Jan 22, 2010 3:33 pm
- Location: mumbai
Re: Best brand of lubricant for rifle
Hi Guys,
Whilst on the subject of lubes for guns - a bit of research produced some very interesting insights which I am sharing with you all....
EXTREME DUTY GUN OIL from LUCAS OIL PRODUCTS
lucasoil.com/products/problem-solvers-utility/extreme-duty-gun-oiln Lube
FRANK PROCTOR- PROFESSIONAL SHOOTER - WayOfTheGun.us
I enjoy shooting…a lot, and I’m fortunate enough that it’s what I do for a living. I run my guns hard and don’t treat them very well at all, I expect them to work when I need them and failure is not an option. In order for this to happen I have to have a GUN OIL that works well, for long periods of time under extreme conditions caused by shooting and the environment. I have tried many different lubricants in the past but when I started using Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil, I was very impressed! It does some things that other oils I’ve tried don’t do. A huge plus is the fact that it stays where I put it. Usually when I lube the slide and frame rails of a 1911 the oil ends up on my hands or my shooting glasses and face, not case with the Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil. It stays on the gun protecting the metal to metal surface and making it cycle super slick! Another thing I’ve noticed is that when I put it an AR-15 it cycles super slick like my 1911, big fan of that! Another one of my observations with the Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil is that is cleans carbon very well. I used it to clean up a very high round count AR-15 bolt carrier group with lots of carbon build up and it was super easy. The chemist can tell you everything it does but as a dude that likes to shoot and run the guns hard, I can say this stuff works better than anything I’ve used before. If you try it I think you’ll be just as happy with it as I am!!!
Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil is a special blend of oil and petroleum-extracted additives producing a lubrication specially formulated for high heat and friction firearms. Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil is designed for semi-auto rifles, shotguns and pistols as well as full auto firearms and suppressors. It offers superior burn-off resistance. Its polymeric film protects metal from rust, moisture and dramatically reduces wear during all shooting conditions.
Briha
Whilst on the subject of lubes for guns - a bit of research produced some very interesting insights which I am sharing with you all....
EXTREME DUTY GUN OIL from LUCAS OIL PRODUCTS
lucasoil.com/products/problem-solvers-utility/extreme-duty-gun-oiln Lube
FRANK PROCTOR- PROFESSIONAL SHOOTER - WayOfTheGun.us
I enjoy shooting…a lot, and I’m fortunate enough that it’s what I do for a living. I run my guns hard and don’t treat them very well at all, I expect them to work when I need them and failure is not an option. In order for this to happen I have to have a GUN OIL that works well, for long periods of time under extreme conditions caused by shooting and the environment. I have tried many different lubricants in the past but when I started using Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil, I was very impressed! It does some things that other oils I’ve tried don’t do. A huge plus is the fact that it stays where I put it. Usually when I lube the slide and frame rails of a 1911 the oil ends up on my hands or my shooting glasses and face, not case with the Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil. It stays on the gun protecting the metal to metal surface and making it cycle super slick! Another thing I’ve noticed is that when I put it an AR-15 it cycles super slick like my 1911, big fan of that! Another one of my observations with the Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil is that is cleans carbon very well. I used it to clean up a very high round count AR-15 bolt carrier group with lots of carbon build up and it was super easy. The chemist can tell you everything it does but as a dude that likes to shoot and run the guns hard, I can say this stuff works better than anything I’ve used before. If you try it I think you’ll be just as happy with it as I am!!!
Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil is a special blend of oil and petroleum-extracted additives producing a lubrication specially formulated for high heat and friction firearms. Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil is designed for semi-auto rifles, shotguns and pistols as well as full auto firearms and suppressors. It offers superior burn-off resistance. Its polymeric film protects metal from rust, moisture and dramatically reduces wear during all shooting conditions.
Briha
-
mercury
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Re: Best brand of lubricant for rifle
Briha...this product would not be appropriate for use in air guns. any gun oil imo would not be suitable for use in air gun internals. also , the purpose / application and application area of gun oils in guns differ from the purpose / application and application area of manufacture recommended airgun oils in airguns. lubrication is the common word...but what is to be lubricated and its location is the difference.
i am not pushing molly or any of the other newer space age pastes as THE lube to be used nor am i suggesting that the application of these "super lubes" would have a springer shoot like a pcp. far from it....any paste / grease with high temperature tolerances is good enough as long as one is aware of the carrier or base used; so it does not compromise the temp.tolerance.
i am not pushing molly or any of the other newer space age pastes as THE lube to be used nor am i suggesting that the application of these "super lubes" would have a springer shoot like a pcp. far from it....any paste / grease with high temperature tolerances is good enough as long as one is aware of the carrier or base used; so it does not compromise the temp.tolerance.
Throw me to the wolves....I will return leading the pack.
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brihacharan
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Re: Best brand of lubricant for rifle
mercury wrote:Briha...this product would not be appropriate for use in air guns. any gun oil imo would not be suitable for use in air gun internals. also , the purpose / application and application area of gun oils in guns differ from the purpose / application and application area of manufacture recommended airgun oils in airguns. lubrication is the common word...but what is to be lubricated and its location is the difference.
i am not pushing molly or any of the other newer space age pastes as THE lube to be used nor am i suggesting that the application of these "super lubes" would have a springer shoot like a pcp. far from it....any paste / grease with high temperature tolerances is good enough as long as one is aware of the carrier or base used; so it does not compromise the temp.tolerance.
Briha
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estousandy
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Re: Best brand of lubricant for rifle
An interesting discussion on Moly & tar here, along with space-tech Krytox!
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/ind ... ic=62915.0
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/ind ... ic=62915.0
with guns we are citizens, without we are subjects
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mercury
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Re: Best brand of lubricant for rifle
it does make interesting reading...problem is the cost and availability. there was another very interesting article about krytox on the Dianawerk Collective too..can't find it though.
i received the spring kit ( that's what he calls it...not tune kit) from the UK a while back for the BSA. the kit included a small tub of molly paste and also a a small container of "DRI SLIDE". this is some amazing stuff. its a black liquid , and not knowing how to use it applied it lightly ( all the instruction sheet mentioned was "apply lightly" )..boy , the gun dieseled away like one of the early steam engines !! anyways called up and was told ....
'...It' s moly suspended in a vehicle or carrier which evaporates and leaves a dry moly paste which does not attract dirt . Shake the can very well to make sure that the moly is suspended, apply, then leave for a few hours to allow the carrier to evaporate, this can be speeded up with warm air from a hair drier. because it's so thin it will find it's way into hard to reach areas..' i had not shaken the container first time round , reason for the dieseling. excellent stuff...when applied right , its super smooth and no smoke in the barrel shot after shot. not sure of the molly content , but here is a write up on it......
http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0095/7 ... ube.pdf?41
here is some information on MoS2 and graphite...way to go if 'controlled dieseling' is the objective. krytox...i do not know if it is available here. molly and graphite combinations can be purchased here through Mollykote products..advantage is they can be got at affordable pricesin tubes in paste form.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_lubricant
i am also looking forward to feedback on Precihole molly.
i received the spring kit ( that's what he calls it...not tune kit) from the UK a while back for the BSA. the kit included a small tub of molly paste and also a a small container of "DRI SLIDE". this is some amazing stuff. its a black liquid , and not knowing how to use it applied it lightly ( all the instruction sheet mentioned was "apply lightly" )..boy , the gun dieseled away like one of the early steam engines !! anyways called up and was told ....
'...It' s moly suspended in a vehicle or carrier which evaporates and leaves a dry moly paste which does not attract dirt . Shake the can very well to make sure that the moly is suspended, apply, then leave for a few hours to allow the carrier to evaporate, this can be speeded up with warm air from a hair drier. because it's so thin it will find it's way into hard to reach areas..' i had not shaken the container first time round , reason for the dieseling. excellent stuff...when applied right , its super smooth and no smoke in the barrel shot after shot. not sure of the molly content , but here is a write up on it......
http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0095/7 ... ube.pdf?41
here is some information on MoS2 and graphite...way to go if 'controlled dieseling' is the objective. krytox...i do not know if it is available here. molly and graphite combinations can be purchased here through Mollykote products..advantage is they can be got at affordable pricesin tubes in paste form.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_lubricant
i am also looking forward to feedback on Precihole molly.
Throw me to the wolves....I will return leading the pack.
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Basu
- Veteran
- Posts: 1483
- Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2009 7:14 pm
- Location: Salt Lake Kolkata
Re: Best brand of lubricant for rifle
Dear mercury,
I have used Precihole moly.
It has grease base ,same like Balmer lorie stuff.
It contains more MOS2 than Balmer lorie.
Maccari and TTI moly have a different base which have very strong surface affinity.
As per my rating , TTI and Maccari come first then Precihole followed by Balmer lorie.
Basu
I have used Precihole moly.
It has grease base ,same like Balmer lorie stuff.
It contains more MOS2 than Balmer lorie.
Maccari and TTI moly have a different base which have very strong surface affinity.
As per my rating , TTI and Maccari come first then Precihole followed by Balmer lorie.
Basu
Not all those wander , are lost...............