Buck 110

[Rrahulkumar]

Congrats maverick786us
I have it on my wish list too...

Brihaji
Pls advise on the WD-40 thing, should I use it to clean my knives?

[maverick786us]

Congrats maverick786us
I have it on my wish list too...

Brihaji
Pls advise on the WD-40 thing, should I use it to clean my knives?

I don't think I will use that oil with my knife. Coconut oil should serve the purpose

[maverick786us]

After using it for almost a month for cutting fruits, I have noticed, that there is a slight amount of rust on it. I thought that stainless steel never rusts. All the kitchen knives which have mediocre quality steel never rust, Howcome this knife rust, which uses a quality steel? How can I get rid of this rust and for future, I can I prevent it from rusting? Do I have to oil it all the time and while using, wash the oil, cut the stuff and then again oil it?

[brihacharan]

Finally I got my Buck 110, indeed it is an amazing knife. Today I first time used it for cutting peach and it cuts it like butter. Now my first question. Its blade is stainles steel, not a crabon steel. So does the blade too needs implementation of oil?

> Congrats on your acquiring a BUCK 110
> Like most equipment, knives need a little care. Here are a few tips to help you get lasting service from your knife:
1.Keep your knife dry - the entire knife, not just the blade.
2.Keep your knife clean, particularly moving parts and locking device.
3.Keep your knife oiled; especially pivot points and the blade.
4.Keep your knife sharp. A sharp blade is safer than a dull one.
5.Do not attempt self-repair. This voids the warranty and may create an unsafe condition.
>Not all knives use stainless steel, older knives, and some newer ones, use carbon steel that’s more susceptible to effects of the elements and may need more frequent care. Knife performance and longevity are enhanced by regular care:
> Clean the entire knife regularly, including blade, pivot points and locking mechanism. Regular cleaning and oiling should take care of sticky residue and light surface oxidation or beginning rust formation commonly found on knives.
>Stainless steel does not discolor easily. Discoloration should be regarded as rust waiting to happen and should be cleaned immediately.
>Store your knife in a dry place (out of the sheath). Lightly wipe the blade with clean oil 3 - 4 times a year to keep off rust. > >Even for blades that are made with corrosion-resistant stainless steel, prolonged exposure to the elements can cause the steel's surface to oxidize.
>Folding knives should be kept clean of debris, particularly the locking device on lock-blade knives.
Briha

[maverick786us]

I am bit confused about the oil part on the blade. Are you saying that oil should always be there on the blade, when not used?

[brihacharan]

I am bit confused about the oil part on the blade. Are you saying that oil should always be there on the blade, when not used?

You may not have oil always on the blade when not in use...but better to wipe the blade with an oil moistened cloth (very thin film)
No harm in this!
All my blades are wiped with an oil moistened cloth once every 3 months & stored without putting them in their sheaths.
Briha

[essdee1972]

I thought that stainless steel never rusts.

There are grades and there are grades. Austenitic stainless steel is highly corrosion resistant. But it is softer. Martensitic stainless steel is less corrosion resistant, but is harder. All SS grades are softer and more corrosion resistant than carbon steels, however.

[brihacharan]

I thought that stainless steel never rusts.

There are grades and there are grades. Austenitic stainless steel is highly corrosion resistant. But it is softer. Martensitic stainless steel is less corrosion resistant, but is harder. All SS grades are softer and more corrosion resistant than carbon steels, however.

> Thus spake the true "Metallurgist"
> You haven't forgotten the basics you learnt in college
Briha

[essdee1972]

Nope. I remembered the basics once I got to be part of IFG's community of blade lovers, and the sub set called "Mumbai CMG"!!

[Lanceman]

Hi Brihacharan Sir, remember seeing your Buck 110, great knife. Razor sharp and in great condition. Essdee, how's my wallet coming along?

[essdee1972]

Sir, still a no-go to Santa Cruz, esp with the rain gods smiling and laughing! Moreover, I wouldn't purchase leather in the monsoons - likely to be fungus infected.

[monty3006]

Lanceman, SD and others..... U guys left our old CMG group on Watsapp???? Why ????

[Derp]

Finally I got my Buck 110, indeed it is an amazing knife. Today I first time used it for cutting peach and it cuts it like butter. Now my first question. Its blade is stainles steel, not a crabon steel. So does the blade too needs implementation of oil?

Did you buy your buck knife from India ?

[essdee1972]

Since this old thread got reopened, let me add a couple of small changes I have made to knife maintenance.

1. To prevent rust on the bigger blades (which are rarely used), I blued them all with Ballistol / Birchwood Casey. Oiled and stored. The big khuks, machetes, Beckers, as well as the DIY ones are kept like this.
2. I found coconut oil (the ubiquitous Parachute brand in the blue bottles) getting rancid after some time, esp. in contact with leather / wood. I switched to Johnson's Baby Oil (had a half of a huge bottle, purchased when my son was actually a baby, leftover). It is mineral oil, and (as confirmed by a friend in J&J) is reasonably safe in small amounts (unless you mistake a baby oil bottle for a beer bottle!) Being mineral, it will never go rancid (the letover I have is almost 8-9 years old, expired wayyy back). I use it on all blades now. I just wipe off the oil before use on food, and after use, wash the blade, wipe it dry, and oil it again.

[Mack The Knife]

To prevent rust on the bigger blades (which are rarely used), I blued them all with Ballistol / Birchwood Casey. Oiled and stored. The big khuks, machetes, Beckers, as well as the DIY ones are kept like this.
2. I found coconut oil (the ubiquitous Parachute brand in the blue bottles) getting rancid after some time, esp. in contact with leather / wood.

Pointless bluing working blades as the bluing wears off easily.

As for the coconut oil, I am glad the penny has finally dropped in at least one quarter. It is okay in a pinch but not for regular use.