Archery Classes

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conty1
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Archery Classes

Post by conty1 » Fri Nov 02, 2012 4:32 pm

So over the summer, the wife had enrolled me for some archery classes that started yesterday. I wasn't too excited about going in but than went anyway with the expectation that I won't like it and won't go back!! But boy was I surprised!! The instructor turned out to be a great southern fella and the group of 8 students wasnt that big, so we could all get enough one on one with him. After Bill(the instructor) gave us a 101 on how to handle the bow and other basics, we shot a few arrows from 15 yards to get a feel of it. They only use re-curves. I shot 2 bull's eyes out of the odd 15-20 arrows shot.

All in all, a fun evening and a great new 'hobby'. There's 3 more classes and totally looking forward to it!!

Cheers,
Amit
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Re: Archery Classes

Post by Mack The Knife » Fri Nov 02, 2012 4:46 pm

conty1 wrote:They only use re-curves.
Obviously they aren't as good as a longbow :mrgreen: but they are far better than those string-n-pulley contraptions or those infernal cross-bows. :mrgreen:

I hope the bug bites you hard. :mrgreen:

conty1
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Re: Archery Classes

Post by conty1 » Fri Nov 02, 2012 4:54 pm

Mack The Knife wrote:
conty1 wrote:They only use re-curves.
Obviously they aren't as good as a longbow :mrgreen: but they are far better than those string-n-pulley contraptions or those infernal cross-bows. :mrgreen:

I hope the bug bites you hard. :mrgreen:
Pretty much the exact same words used by Bill as far as a Compound bow is concerned!! :)

Why is that? What do you guys have against it?
:mrgreen:
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Re: Archery Classes

Post by Mack The Knife » Fri Nov 02, 2012 5:49 pm

I don't have anything against the compound or cross bow per se but I am totally against the instant gratification that they are capable of dishing out.

I also feel that those who only hunt with a compound and/or crossbow, with all their attendant crutches, should not be allowed to hunt during the archery season, with the exception of the aged and those with physical ailments. The technology has advanced so far, that they (compunds and x-bows) are as good as a rifle or shotgun.

Views from both sides of the fence here - http://indiansforguns.com/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=17009

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Re: Archery Classes

Post by Hammerhead » Fri Nov 02, 2012 6:48 pm

I beg to disagree. This discussion of rifle vs shotguns/ compound vs crossbows/ treestands vs ground/ hunting dogs vs still hunters/ long range shooters vs safe shooters or the same old 30-06 vs 270 has created and cost all of us A LOT - Haji
Here is an old article, I was looking for some time now ......
Going Long On Game
by Greg Rodriguez • September 23, 2010 •

Few topics stir up as much controversy among hunters as shooting big-game animals at “long range.”
By Greg Rodriguez


An accurate, flat-shooting rifle and a good optical sight are essential for making long shots. With the aid of an accurate .300 WSM, 180-grain AccuBond and a good ranging reticle, Greg dropped this fine B.C. billy with a single shot from 602 yards.

Few topics stir up as much controversy among hunters as shooting big-game animals at “long range.” What constitutes “long” varies widely. Some consider anything over 200 yards to be way out there, while others may not bat an eye at anything shy of 400 yards. In my opinion, the variables are too many to reduce the subject to a few absolutes.

Before I go any further, let me digress for a paragraph to say this: You should never shoot farther than you feel absolutely comfortable and confident shooting. Whether it’s 100 or 500 yards, if you aren’t confident of where that bullet is going to go when you squeeze the trigger, don’t squeeze it. A bad hit on a target is one thing, but a wounded and lost animal is inexcusable. Along those lines, refrain from taking long shots, no matter how skilled you are, if you can possibly get closer.

Accurate, long-range shooting requires a good skill-set and the right equipment. For the best results, mix a skilled shooter with an accurate, flat-shooting rifle; quality ammunition; and a quality optic, preferably one with a ranging reticle or target turrets.

Most hunters have different definitions of accuracy. For some, 1.5 inches is plenty good, whereas others are happy with a gun that keeps ‘em in a pie plate at 100. But those who plan to hunt where shots are long should not consider a gun that doesn’t shoot well-under 1 inch at 100 yards. My own requirement is 1/2 MOA or better for a true long-range rig.

A good trigger and a comfortable, stable stock that fits are “musts” on any long-range rig. A bolt-action repeater with a medium-weight barrel of 23 to 26 inches is ideal. Shorter barrels handle great but give up too much in the velocity department with the magnum cartridges I prefer; more than 26 inches is too much of a good thing. One reason I like the WSM cartridges so much is that I can get pretty close to maximum velocity with an easy-handling 23-inch tube.

A long-range hunting rig should be chambered for a cartridge that retains enough energy–1200 ft-lbs is the generally accepted minimum–to do the job at the shooter’s self-imposed maximum range and have a flat enough trajectory to help take some of the guess work out of figuring elevation holds. Though I am a huge fan of the .257 Weatherby for deer and pronghorns at long range, the increased energy and wind-bucking abilities of the .30-caliber magnums make them great choices.

A quality bullet that will perform as designed at a wide range of impact velocities is also essential. Match your bullet to the game and cartridge. It should be tough enough to withstand a close-range impact with a meaty shoulder at magnum velocities but still open up way out there. Hornady’s InterBond, Nosler’s AccuBond, Swift’s Scirocco II, Barnes’s Triple-Shock, Winchester’s XP3, and Federal’s new tipped Trophy Bonded are all excellent choices for big game.

Heavy-for-caliber bullets, regardless of the game you’re hunting, are also a must. They buck the wind better, retain more energy, and actually shoot flatter at extreme range than lighter pills of the same design.


For example, Federal’s 165-grain Barnes TSX load leaves the muzzle at 3130 fps and generates 3589 ft-lbs of muzzle energy. The 180-grain TSX load has a muzzle velocity of 2989 fps and 3549 ft-lbs of muzzle energy. At 500 yards, the 180-grain bullet has a significant advantage in muzzle energy–1638 ft-lbs for the 180-grain bullet versus 1425 ft-lbs for the 165-grainer–and it has 2.9 inches less of wind drift than the 165-grain bullet. The 180-grain TSX will drop 1.3 inches more, but drop is a lot easier to dope than wind, so the 180-grain TSX gets my vote every day.

The difference in drop and wind drift is much more compelling if we drop down to 150-grain bullets of similar construction, but the advantages of heavy bullets are plain to see, even with a slight, 15-grain difference in bullet weight.

The optic is the final piece of the long-range rifle puzzle. Bright, clear glass and a rugged design that won’t lose its zero are absolutely essential. An adjustable objective is also necessary for eliminating parallax, which can mean the difference between a clean kill and a missed or wounded animal at long range.

A quality ranging reticle or target turrets take a lot of the guesswork out of shooting beyond 300 yards. Long-range reticles from makers like Burris, Leupold, Nightforce, Nikon, Shepherd, Swarovski, and Zeiss have aiming points designed to hit within a circle of a given size at a given range. What each of those reticles’ lines or circles means varies according to caliber and the power setting of the scope. On the other hand, custom reticles like those from Premier Reticles and Leupold’s Custom Shop are designed to be spot-on at specific ranges with a given rifle and load.

Target turrets are excellent for long-range shooting, provided you use a quality scope with adjustments that track properly and return to zero. You can zero out the factory turrets after sighting-in and figure out your own clicks, or you can go with a custom BDC turret from Leupold. I’ve used both with great success, but I am a fan of Leupold’s custom BDC turret for hunting.

I have several dedicated long-range rigs. For pronghorns, I rely on my .257 Weatherby. Though it’s a fairly lightweight rifle, it has a 26-inch barrel and shoots well under a half-inch at 100 yards with 115-grain Barnes X-Bullets. Its Leupold scope has a custom dot reticle calibrated for dead-on holds from 200 to 600 yards. Last year, I used it to smoke a fine Dall ram at 488 yards.

For the majority of my hunting in wide-open spaces, I rely on a trio of .300 Magnums. The first, a custom number in .300 WSM, has a 23-inch barrel and a Swarovski scope with the TDS reticle, which is, sadly, no longer in production. With 180-grain AccuBonds and a 200-yard zero, its progressively wider bars offer a dead-on hold and 10-mile-per-hour crosswind hold-offs from 200 to 600 yards.

I also use a 24-inch-barreled .300 Winchester Magnum and a .300 Weatherby with a 26-inch tube. One wears a Nikon Monarch scope with Nikon’s BDC reticle, and the .300 Weathe
rby has a target turret-equipped Leupold scope. With my favorite 180-grain loads, I can easily ring a 10-inch gong at 600 yards with either rifle. Like my .300 WSM, they are capable of cleanly taking everything from whitetails to wildebeest as far as I feel comfortable shooting.

Going long on game should not be undertaken lightly. But in the hands of a skilled shooter, the right gear can help minimize mistakes, which is the key to every hunter’s goal–a clean, humane kill.



Read more: http://www.shootingtimes.com/2010/09/23 ... z2DegCMYDj
Last edited by Hammerhead on Fri Nov 30, 2012 4:30 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Archery Classes

Post by Mack The Knife » Fri Nov 02, 2012 7:26 pm

Haji,

When a seperate archery season was finally brought in, the bowhunter had the choice of a longbow or recurve. A few may have had rudimentary cross bows.

Today's compounds and crossbows are nothing short of string guns and I personally feel they shouldn't be allowed during the archery season.

If someone wants to be a two season hunter, let him put in the grind rather than just picking up his compound or crossbow putting in a couple of hours of practice/tuning, if that, and heading off to the woods.

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Re: Archery Classes

Post by Mack The Knife » Fri Nov 02, 2012 7:53 pm

Amit,

Which recurve were you using and what is the poundage?

If you can list out what was taught on the first day and on the days to come, it would help.

Thanks.

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Re: Archery Classes

Post by conty1 » Fri Nov 02, 2012 9:45 pm

Mack The Knife wrote:Amit,

Which recurve were you using and what is the poundage?

If you can list out what was taught on the first day and on the days to come, it would help.

Thanks.
Mack The Knife... I had no interest in archery before I went into this class so I really didnt know what to expect or what kind of questions to ask. However, Bill did mention that these were the same bows that were being used at the Olympics!! I'll ask next Thursday.

As far as what was taught on day one, Bill started with the basics. First he had us put our arm guards on. Than, he went on to list the safety issues and his 'whistle' codes :mrgreen: Than he showed the correct way to set the arrow nock and how to use three fingers to pull the string. Also, how to pull the string back to your chin with the right hand while not holding the bow too rigid with the left. And when you shoot, how to follow through both the hands and watching the arrow and its trajectory.

Cheers,
Amit
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Re: Archery Classes

Post by Mack The Knife » Sat Nov 03, 2012 7:08 am

Amit, it's either a very top notch archery school or the bows are from manufacturers seen at the Olympics - Win&Win, Samick and Hoyt.

Were your bows bare, that is without sights and stabilisers?

Bill is teaching you a paper punchers / FITA form but if after you have completed the course and want to use the bow for more worthwhile activities let me know or better still nag Mark.

For now, I would recommend a book by Anthony Camera called Shooting The Stickbow. http://www.shootingthestickbow.com/

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Re: Archery Classes

Post by xl_target » Sat Nov 03, 2012 8:45 am

Amit,
Congratulations on another hobby. :)
Jennifer will regret this, won't she?

Mack, most states in the US don't allow hunting with a crossbow.
In Minnesota, you can only hunt with a crossbow if you're physically handicapped in some way.
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Re: Archery Classes

Post by Mack The Knife » Sat Nov 03, 2012 8:54 am

xl_target wrote:Mack, most states in the US don't allow hunting with a crossbow.
Good! They should put compounds on that list as well. :mrgreen:

(Waiting for Haji to erupt ROTFL )

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Re: Archery Classes

Post by Hammerhead » Sat Nov 03, 2012 9:08 am

Mack The Knife wrote:
(Waiting for Haji to erupt ROTFL )
So WE officially ruin the thread :deadhorse:
The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing. - Edmund Burke

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Re: Archery Classes

Post by kanwar76 » Sat Nov 03, 2012 9:58 am

Another one bite the dust :mrgreen:

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Re: Archery Classes

Post by xl_target » Sat Nov 03, 2012 10:13 am

Good! They should put compounds on that list as well. :mrgreen:

(Waiting for Haji to erupt ROTFL )
Did someone say Eruption?

Image


I don't know what gave me the impression that you don't care for Compound Bows?
This guy does not look happy about that.

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Re: Archery Classes

Post by Mack The Knife » Sat Nov 03, 2012 10:24 am

Hammerhead wrote:So WE officially ruin the thread :deadhorse:
Entirely depends on how WE conduct ourselves. :mrgreen:

Afterall, the newbie needs to realise, that "they only use recurves" isn't a bad thing after all. It is also my sworn duty to take the mick out off string gun shooters. :mrgreen:

Another one bite the dust :mrgreen:
You think so or do you think he will take the easy way out?
Help him Inder, lest he gives into temptation. :wink:

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