THE KHUKRI PROJECT- 06-05-2012

[Safarigent]

Moin,
I hope you have a first aid kit nearby. Also a small portable Class C fire extinguisher will be a wise investment.
All the best with rhe rest. Jonahpach might be able to give you a few tips as well.
Regards
A

[essdee1972]

Moin, you are carrying a severe infectious disease!!! Should be quarantined, IMHO!!

That's an impressive array of tools you acquired over a weekend, by the way!!

I need some advice on tangs. My Khuk has a rattail tang, fixed into the wooden handle with some local type mixture (probably with coaltar as a base + something...). Now, that handle is a bit small for me (exactly fitting my hand, need some more tolerance), and I can see no way to stick the tang in a handle once I melt out the "adhesive". Probably m-seal would work, but only for show, probably would give out with the first use. Can I have a piece of steel welded on to make a full tang? Won't the welding heat damage whatever heat treatment is present on the blade (seems to be MS)? I believe brazing would give a weak joint, and I will not be able to drill holes for the pins. I was toying with the idea of using a plastic handle (like the ones for files / hacksaws) and heat-setting the tang. But it will totally totally ruin the looks!! As for tools, I am using hand tools only, except for a drill if needed. Might invest in a Dremel later on.

[marthandan]

congrats on the purchases...you are in too deep now...no turning back
let me know how the mini rotary tool is? what brand is it and how much did it cost?

why dont you weld a piece of mild steel onto the tang? it would definitely stronger than a brazed joint and will also let you drill holes for fitting the handle easily. wrap the blade in a piece of wet towel/sponge during welding and the HT will not be affected.

[brihacharan]

thats a wonderful project .
to remove the handle, u can cut lengthwise using a hacksaw. how do u plan to fit the brass spine strengthner?

and if you are still looking for a dremel tool, buy a die grinder. its cheaper, has a smaller range of speeds. otherwise, it performs all the work of the dremel tool.

Hi Marthandan,
> Need your advice!
> I bought a Khukri many years ago in Khatmandu - Heavy blade made out of lorry leaf spring fitted to a Yak horn handle.
> Looks great but the blade is a tad too heavy - Can it be ground to make it lighter with a good finish?
> Its very difficult to get hold of a good knife grider - Is a DIY possible?
> Awaiting your advice!
Briha

[Moin.]

Moin,
I hope you have a first aid kit nearby. Also a small portable Class C fire extinguisher will be a wise investment.
All the best with rhe rest. Jonahpach might be able to give you a few tips as well.
Regards
A

Thanks Arjun, noted. I've been through Jonah's Mizo Bowie Thread Several Times, could'nt gather the courage to try melting and casting Brass like he did

Regards
Moin.

[Moin.]

Moin, you are carrying a severe infectious disease!!! Should be quarantined, IMHO!!

That's an impressive array of tools you acquired over a weekend, by the way!!

I need some advice on tangs. My Khuk has a rattail tang, fixed into the wooden handle with some local type mixture (probably with coaltar as a base + something...). Now, that handle is a bit small for me (exactly fitting my hand, need some more tolerance), and I can see no way to stick the tang in a handle once I melt out the "adhesive". Probably m-seal would work, but only for show, probably would give out with the first use. Can I have a piece of steel welded on to make a full tang? Won't the welding heat damage whatever heat treatment is present on the blade (seems to be MS)? I believe brazing would give a weak joint, and I will not be able to drill holes for the pins. I was toying with the idea of using a plastic handle (like the ones for files / hacksaws) and heat-setting the tang. But it will totally totally ruin the looks!! As for tools, I am using hand tools only, except for a drill if needed. Might invest in a Dremel later on.

Infectious and addictive

Thanks, travelled by a BEST bus for a month or two instead of taking the car to work and brought these power tools with the fuel money:) Not sure if you have seen Nagdevi Street, the place is 5 minutes walking distance from Lohar Chawl and is a heaven for tools. Far better collections, variety and prices than Lohar Chawl.

For those interested in Axes they have very good American ones from 550 for the smaller ones to 1200 for the huge lumberjack types of axes and very good quality too.

I myself been reading about brazing, seems easire to do than welding. I wanted to do all parts of the blade myself and brazing is DIY instead of welding. You get these propane canisters for 650 or so that are used by AC Technicians. if brazing doesn't work then plan to go to these grill fabricators I know and try a hand at welding it myself at the cost of ruining the brass handle. Marthandan has given a good soultion to wrap the blade in damp towel/cloth.

The Dremel Kit costs 5500 in Lohar Chawl and Nagdevi Street, but can't be used for heavy stcok removal work. For the cost of 1 Dremel I got me a Bench Griner, an Orbital Sander and a mini rotary too.

Regards
Moin.

[Moin.]

congrats on the purchases...you are in too deep now...no turning back
let me know how the mini rotary tool is? what brand is it and how much did it cost?

why dont you weld a piece of mild steel onto the tang? it would definitely stronger than a brazed joint and will also let you drill holes for fitting the handle easily. wrap the blade in a piece of wet towel/sponge during welding and the HT will not be affected.

Thanks Marthandan, you instigated me The Rotary Tool along with it's electrical adapter with variable speed cost me 1200. The Rotary Tool is made in UK I think. It is for artists/sculptors etc, not for any heavy work.Will check the make. The tool bits I selected cutters, grinding stones etc costs 300 or so. Very small and handy, but to be used for very light work only. I'll send you some pics.

Welding needs a lot of practice to get a correct uniform weld, i will try it out even it if ruins the brass handle I am making, worth it I guess.

Regards
Moin.

[Moin.]

Moin, you are carrying a severe infectious disease!!! Should be quarantined, IMHO!!

That's an impressive array of tools you acquired over a weekend, by the way!!

I need some advice on tangs. My Khuk has a rattail tang, fixed into the wooden handle with some local type mixture (probably with coaltar as a base + something...). Now, that handle is a bit small for me (exactly fitting my hand, need some more tolerance), and I can see no way to stick the tang in a handle once I melt out the "adhesive". Probably m-seal would work, but only for show, probably would give out with the first use. Can I have a piece of steel welded on to make a full tang? Won't the welding heat damage whatever heat treatment is present on the blade (seems to be MS)? I believe brazing would give a weak joint, and I will not be able to drill holes for the pins. I was toying with the idea of using a plastic handle (like the ones for files / hacksaws) and heat-setting the tang. But it will totally totally ruin the looks!! As for tools, I am using hand tools only, except for a drill if needed. Might invest in a Dremel later on.

Esdee, You are a metallurgy specialist, how weak really is a brazed joint. Of course welding is a different thing altogether. Won't a brazed joint even stand the vibrations of a drill machine. ? Try the MS handle, plastic will look hideous on a khuk.

Regards
Moin.

[Rajat]

Still lot of grinding work to do on the handle, have to figure out a way to cut a notch in the brass piece to accomodate the rat tail tang and finally fuse the two together.

Regards
Moin.

There are many ways to do this but since you want a hardcore DIY way then my suggestion will be to mark the outline of the tang on the brass, reduce the outline by one mm or so to ensure a tight fit and then simple cut away with an angle grinder fitted with a metal cutting disc (for example the 5" Bosch A 30 SBF disc).



Should just take a couple of minutes. Then place the tang on the brass plate again, remark and manually file away for a perfect fit. Keep checking for a perfect fit while filing manually.

This is going to be easy.

How to permanently attach the brass to the rat tail to make a wider tang is another story. Here a whole set of different techniques come into play.

[Rajat]

Oh, I do not think I need to bother with all the additional advice (meaning you will do it anyway) like wearing eye protection, gloves, clamping the piece while working on it etc etc etc since from what I have gathered you have plenty of experience around work sites etc and are a grown up boy

BTW the above does not mean that I recommend the system you have chosen to make a wider tang. Just giving my opinion on what you have set out to do

[Rajat]

The other possible option is to cut out the desired rat tail profile into the brass plate with a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade. Again quite easy but we do not want to keep on additional buying tools! Do we?

Possibly your rotary tool also comes with some sort of a pin file attachment for grinding. Also possible to grind it with this. Check.

[Moin.]

Still lot of grinding work to do on the handle, have to figure out a way to cut a notch in the brass piece to accomodate the rat tail tang and finally fuse the two together.

Regards
Moin.

How to permanently attach the brass to the rat tail to make a wider tang is another story. Here a whole set of different techniques come into play.

I don't really feel comfortable with an angle grinder. Have tried my hand at making mouldings on marbles etc but the tool is scary. and controlling it accurately needs practice. I have seen horrible injuries with the angle grinder, plus the terrible noise it makes Tried the Dewalt, Bosh, Electrex at the Hardware stores and all seem very heavy for any close cutting. So I am a bit averse.

What do you recommend for fusing brass and steel and ofcourse for tang extensions ?

Regards
Moin.

[Rajat]

What do you recommend for fusing brass and steel and ofcourse for tang extensions ?

Regards
Moin.

Bi metal welding / joints are a bit complicated. Try iron to iron combination to extend the tang and simply weld it together. Its the strongest.

This has been suggested above too. Any weld will work: simple coil type electric, arc, spot. Do whatever is convenient. Even if you use the services of a welder we will still consider it a 100% DIY product since the efforts and guidance are all yours.

Grind the edges of both the tang and the other plate of metal (chamfer these / cut a furrow) at the joint into a V groove and weld in between and grind the excess off to have a smooth surface and a strong weld joint.

[Rajat]

I don't really feel comfortable with an angle grinder. Have tried my hand at making mouldings on marbles etc but the tool is scary. and controlling it accurately needs practice.
Regards
Moin.

You must be referring to the larger grinders (180 mm discs) @ 4kgs and heavier. Check out the smaller ones (100 mm) with a weight of approx 1.5 kgs. Yes these do need a bit of practice.

But do not worry about these there are a lot of other options and you already have a rotary tool.

[Moin.]

I don't really feel comfortable with an angle grinder. Have tried my hand at making mouldings on marbles etc but the tool is scary. and controlling it accurately needs practice.
Regards
Moin.

You must be referring to the larger grinders (180 mm discs) @ 4kgs and heavier. Check out the smaller ones (100 mm) with a weight of approx 1.5 kgs. Yes these do need a bit of practice.

But do not worry about these there are a lot of other options and you already have a rotary tool.

Thanks Rajat, managed to cut through it using good ol' muscle power and hacksaw. Can't run a grinder at 11.00 in the night









Regards
Moin.