Original Oberndorf Mauser Type A in .30-06

[Mack The Knife]

Timmy, I did see the Buehler style safety but did not pay it any attention thinking that it would require some form of machining to fit it on the bolt. However, I am delighted to read that no machining is required to fit this safety and it also happens to be affordable. Thank you very much for bringing it to my notice. Should I decide on a scope, this is probably what I will order.

If you currently have a rifle with the Buehler type safety, could you please post a few pictures showing how it is attached and in the on and off positions.

Thanks.

Mack The Knife

P.S.: I haven't ordered much from Brownells but it is one of my favourite sites. Especially, the 'How-To' section. I also have a treasured copy of their Gunsmith Kinks III thanks to an earlier IFG member.

[TenX]

...If someone could tell me how to post an AutoCAD drawing on the forum, I will do the needful.

You may need a CAD-Java-Applet to enable viewing of AutoCAD drawings directly in browsers.
Alternately, you can upload the AutoCAD file to a free hosting service like Rapidshare or ADrive, and post the links here.
A simpler way is to export AutoCAD files into JPG/GIF files from AutoCAD itself, and post images as usual

[penpusher]

Mack The Knife,

Why bother about the safety.I have never used one whether shooting a shotgun or a rifle. Walking about with a loaded chamber and a cocked action is a sure shot recipe for disaster. No offense meant and not directed at you but only a fool would rely on a safety

[timmy]

Mack The Knife: I had one on a 1903 Springfield which I haven't had for years. They were used on old FN Mausers sold here under the Husqvarna label and also another label I can't recall, which I've shot. I also bought a used one and put it on some Mauser, but I can't recall which rifle that was anymore. The design of them is the same, however. The shaft piece fits as the shaft of the factory part, and will lock the bolt by means of the notch in the bolt body interacting with the uncut portion of the end of the shaft. The lever part fits in a notch so that the screw that holds in on the shaft doesn't bear any torque from operation. What is different now is that they use what looks to be an allen head screw, rather than the slotted round head they used to use.

In operation, the lever part swings from about 2 o'clock to 4 o'clock. I see that Midway lists the same thing for less money, and they say gunsmith fitting is required. I don't recall any modification of the factory assembly being required, tho, so I looked up the manufacterer's site here: http://www.timneytriggers.com/sunshop/

They had an instruction sheet on their site: http://www.timneytriggers.com/InstallIn ... ns/LPS.pdf

The issue here is that these kinds of safeties work "backwards." In the factory safety operation, the safety swings clockwise to engage the slot in the striker assembly. With these low-profile safeties, they swing counter-clockwise to engage the same slot. The ones I've operated aren't really easy to engage, but when you want to flip them down to fire, they work quite well. Then again, it's not like the original was a snap to engage or disengage.

I wouldn't hesitate to try one of these if I needed scope eyepiece clearance, but everyone has to feel comfortable with what their doing on their own weapon, so please take my comments for whatever use they might be for you - for better or for worse.

[Mack The Knife]

A simpler way is to export AutoCAD files into JPG/GIF files from AutoCAD itself, and post images as usual.

That sounds do-able (the other options left me seeing stars) but how the dickens do I export the files as JPG files? Thanks!

Why bother about the safety.

Because I want one.

[Mack The Knife]

Timmy, thanks a lot for the link to the fitting instructions. Having read it I can understand why Midway recommends a gunsmith. Cocking pieces are available, so if I decide to go this route I will order one just in case I need to hone it and keep the original intact.

You have been of great help. Cheers!

[TenX]

...but how the dickens do I export the files as JPG files? Thanks!.

As far as I remember, here goes:
While rendering the AutoCAD job, you can select destination in the Render Dialog box. Choose ‘File’ in this Render Dialog box. You will also have more options. Select this, and within that, you will get the file output configuration options. Here, you can select TIFF or JPEG. You can also select resolution details and user defined size. 8 Bit should do fine, but a little trial and error will give you required results.
You can also download a PDF tutorial “HOW TO CONVERT AUTOCAD DRAWINGS INTO WINDOWS-FRIENDLY IMAGE FILES FOR DISPLAY IN DOCUMENTS AND PRESENTATIONS” here:
http://www.me.gatech.edu/docs/frankkweb ... export.pdf

[ASSAULT]

Wow what a beauti! I'll anyday prefer this over a dame!

[TwoRivers]

Mack The Knife: Keep in mind that the straight-up position of the Mauser safety, safe but allowing the bolt to be cycled, also allows ready disassembly of the bolt.You will lose that capability with the replacement low-swing ones. Also, they are far more easily knocked-off out of safe position. For an open sighted rifle the original is far more practical, and safer. It is a true safety. The new safety may require fitting, as it has to pull the cocking piece off the sear far enough, so that if the trigger is pulled with the safety on, it won't fire when the safety is released; but not so far that it becomes too stiff. Any 'smith worthy of the name would make sure that the safety would work smoothly and positively; a replacement safety has to be slightly oversize, and needs to be fitted. And no, it is the bolt handle as much as the safety that will interfere with a scope. Pistol scopes typically have eye-relief of 10-18", and a very small field of view.
Any wooden stock, or solid plastic crap, can of course be adapted with minor inletting of the barrel channel, but will leave gaps. I did not mean it couldn't be done, just that an American stock for a "98 with sporter barrel" would be anything but a drop-in for for your Mauser. If you get a better "synthetic" stock, like fiberglass, you will not be able to change the barrel inletting, as cutting the fiberglass shell would obviously weaken it. If you have to get a replacement stock, go with wood, you can do minor reshaping with that, and make it fit you better; with a synthetic one you are stuck. And the majority, especially the cheaper ones, are very poorly designed.
Seems to me you bought yourself a classic hunting rifle (you lucky guy!), and now you are trying to turn it into something else.

[marksman]

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z186 ... 9721-1.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z186 ... C_9726.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z186 ... C_9722.jpg

Mack The Knife,
Some pictures for you of another classic rifle with a scope mounts I suggested. This one is a H&H 375 Magnum, Take down Deluxe model built in 1934 by H&H. The mounts go pretty well with the classic lines of a typical British design of the rifle.
Marksman

[Mack The Knife]

Anand: Thanks for the explanation. Will give it a try later on.

TwoRivers: Thanks for explaining why the replacemet safety would need setting up. Coming to the bolt, I have simulated the bolts cycling with a 2-7x32 and a 1.5-5x20 scope and in both instances the bolt is clear of the ocular box. The following pictures should give you and Timmy a rough idea.

Seems to me you bought yourself a classic hunting rifle (you lucky guy!), and now you are trying to turn it into something else.

I can appreciate your frustation (or should I say exasperation?) and I would most probably feel the same. The good news is that the chances of any change to the original are getting slimmer with each passing day because for the first time I am seeing images with a clarity that I cannot even recall. However, as the Boy Scouts would say - "Be prepared!". Leave aside the scope, I am even having second thoughts about replacing the stock with what is available commercially and am thinking of getting an exact copy made on a copying machine should I find someone willing to do it in Bangalore.

Incidentally, the scopes I had mentioned earlier are:
1) B-Square 2.5x20 shotgun scope. Eye relief : 6"
2) Bushnell Banner 1.75-4x32 shotgun scope. Eye relief: 6"
3) Nikon Buckmasters 1x20 Blackpowder scope. Eye relief: 4.3 - 13"
4) Millet Buck Silver 2x20 pistol scope. Eye relief: 6 - 18"

I don't quite recall the FOV but it was adequate.

[Mack The Knife]

Marksman,

Thanks for the pictures and that is indeed a wonderfully maintained rifle but I have decided that I will not D&T the receiver nor solder claw mounts onto it. However, your attachment at the fore-end looks interesting. Could you please post pictures of this and the rear as well?

Incidentally, I would be grateful for any information you can give me regarding those British Raj proofmarks you saw on the Mauser.

Mack The Knife

[TwoRivers]

Mack The Knife: If you are willing to mount the scope that high, it will work; though I am not sure you can get rings high enough. On the military 98, bolt and safety require the same mount height if unaltered, and that way are totally unsuitable for hunting. "See-through" rings might get you that high. The field of view of a pistol scope would also be totally inadequate on a hunting rifle. And therein lies the rub, my perspective is from the perspective of a hunting rifle, yours is not. Anyhow, I hope you have someone who can accurately drill and tap the rifle for you. I"d suggest Weaver bases, as a large variety of rings is available for those.
Cheers.

[Mack The Knife]

Two Rivers: Those pictures were taken at the start of the 'experiment' and before I started drawing to see if the two mounting options I had in mind would work. This was well before I chanced upon the ATI base.

To cut a long story short, based on the drawings and then actually setting up the rifle and scope (1" dia. tube) as per the drawing dimensions I get the following dimensions from the centre of the scope tube to the centre of the bore - 2.3866", 2.1897" and 2.0323" and the bolt still opens and cycles at 2.0323".

Anyhow, I hope you have someone who can accurately drill and tap the rifle for you.

This entire exercise is because I do NOT want to drill and tap the receiver. Had I been so inclined, this subject would never have come up.

[marksman]

Mack The Knife,
The rifle wears an original leaf spring lock H&H swivel for the barrel band and butt eyelets, not unlike key chains to hook on to the belt loop or on the removable shoulder slings for the tote bags ., While this one also has a free swiveling ball joint under, independent of the hook, to accommodate the twist and turns of the sling. I have the original H&H leather sling that came with this beauty which has been revitalized with a generous doze of Neatfoot oil and safely locked up in the cabinet.Now I have an American made( A&A)all leather sling on it, which for all practical reasons is much more comfortable on the shoulder. Most of the Pre WW II H&H rifles had sling eyelets built with rather generous holes and I suppose the normal swivel cross pins wouldn't work satisfactorily on them. If your Baby too has these sexy big eyes, start searching immediately for these buddy, its worth it.
Marksman