IHP "National" air rifles & pistols

[Mo]

the cocking arm is riveted onto the barrel+block combo. So the rivet will have to be removed to change the cocking arm to one with the correct length. Not hard to do, but will ensure that you cannot keep on swapping between barrel lengths, even if the other dimensions are correct....

Exactly. But instead of messing with the barrel, why not cut/weld the cocking arm instead? I'm sure it'll be more accomodating for a 'not so perfect' job than the barrel.

@Abhijeet: Can you send me measurements of the barrel and block from the 25? I can compare with my 35.

Another thought was (this is just for the heck of a good project). What if, the barrel could be separated from the block and both the components threaded? A screw on barrel would be cool.

If used with open sights, even if the barrel/block alignment is a li'l off, one can still aim.

Not that the fit of a stock national is something to write home about!

I know this is a lot of trumpeting over a comparatively inferior rifle. But hey, it has to begin somewhere now, init?

Food for thought?

[sitar]

it is hard to be precise when welding.
needs to go in hand of really good gunsmith

[Mo]

Well the whole idea of tinkering with the cocking arm is to give room for errors. So a guy with decent welding skills should fit the bill.

[mundaire]

In stead of welding it would be far simpler to "tap" the hole where the rivet is currently fitted so that you can use a screw, it seems like the path of least resistance (my personal favourite). I'd suggest a hex screw for anyone who is looking at frequently removing the cocking arm...

No sweat will do the measurements, am just waiting to get my hands on a decent vernier calliper once I get one will take care of this... I take it there is no rush?

Cheers!
Abhijeet

[Mo]

Yeah, the screw replacement for the rivet would be the better option. Makes a clean job of it too.

Or maybe even a hitch pin and clip. Strong sturdy and extremely easy to assemble.

Yeah, I'm in no hurry. Take your time.

Lets hope we can evolve this rifle a bit

[sitar]

hats off abhi

[TenX]

In stead of welding it would be far simpler to "tap" the hole where the rivet is currently fitted so that you can use a screw, it seems like the path of least resistance (my personal favourite). I'd suggest a hex screw for anyone who is looking at frequently removing the cocking arm...

No sweat will do the measurements, am just waiting to get my hands on a decent vernier calliper once I get one will take care of this... I take it there is no rush?

Cheers!
Abhijeet

... the best bet so far

[mundaire]

BTW, since you guys are thinking of modding the IHP - one of the simplest mods would be to replace the existing spring guide with a much tighter fitting one. You can probably look at getting one fabricated from Delrin (Polyoxymethylene/ POM) or some similar material.

[tirths]

Delrin may not be the right option for spring guide unless it is solid. Brass could be an option. But better to keep the stock guide and use a "heat sink" to fit the spring.

[Mo]

Any idea where such a fabrication can be got done in Bangalore? Would a regular lathe humor such a request?

@Tirth: What do you mean use a heat-sink? Something made out of aluminum? Or having a second pipe over the existing guide and around the piston walls. Wouldn't that give a reduction in vibrations?

[tirths]

Heat-Shrink -->http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat-shrink_tubing you will get fair idea about it. Surely this will minimize vibration. you can put it on top hat and spring guide. Well IHP there is no tophat. you can make one. Any autoshop that takes care auto-riksha should have lathe, they may charge 20 to 50.

[TenX]

Heat-Shrink -->http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat-shrink_tubing you will get fair idea about it. Surely this will minimize vibration. you can put it on top hat and spring guide. Well IHP there is no tophat. you can make one. Any autoshop that takes care auto-riksha should have lathe, they may charge 20 to 50.

.. This I did not know ..
Thanks...

[Mo]

@Tirth: I thought you said heat sink. Yeah, I've used heat shrink. Its great to keep soldered batteries together etc. But methinks it'd tear with all the friction. Its not really strong being something similar to wrapping the guide with insulation tape. But it will definitely damp a lot of the vibrations.

Have you tried this?

[Mo]

Hi Guys!

Dunno if this'll interest any of you, but its a fun try.

I'm sure everybody's see the roadside vendors selling those ear-buds. Well, they may not be safe to clean one's ear, but I found a more interesting use

Take one swab, cut out a 3/4cm bit of the tube and it fits perfectly on the front sight post of the IHP.

Get a Glow in the dark marker and paint the cut out with it. Its better to paint it after attaching it since oil from the skin will affect the glow of the paint.

Now you have your own Glow in the Dark Sights for the IHP!

You may want to drill a couple of holes on the front sight guard to ensure enough light reaches the glow-post.

For the rear sight, cut out two small bits of Glow in the Dark sticker (Available at most toy shops) and attach it.

Have a go!

[TenX]

Hi Guys!

Dunno if this'll interest any of you, but its a fun try.

I'm sure everybody's see the roadside vendors selling those ear-buds. Well, they may not be safe to clean one's ear, but I found a more interesting use

Take one swab, cut out a 3/4cm bit of the tube and it fits perfectly on the front sight post of the IHP.

Get a Glow in the dark marker and paint the cut out with it. Its better to paint it after attaching it since oil from the skin will affect the glow of the paint.

Now you have your own Glow in the Dark Sights for the IHP!

You may want to drill a couple of holes on the front sight guard to ensure enough light reaches the glow-post.

For the rear sight, cut out two small bits of Glow in the Dark sticker (Available at most toy shops) and attach it.

Have a go!

... that would be a very cheap option and relatively a no cost experiment ...