IHP "National" air rifles & pistols
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Thanx Sniper and Mack The Knife,
I have taken the whole stock apart once again and put two steel washers on the inside. I have loosened the stock screws and before i read Mack The Knife's post had already used the glue but took it apart later. But these are not helping really. My problems galore seems to be endless and i am revising my opinion on these rifles. It may be that the reinstallation at the shop was not done very well. Here goes my list
1. The cocking link which is connected to the barrel in a H kind of section-the metal is being scraped on one side and it is accumulating there.
2. The cocking link scrapes one side of the Stock
3. The barrel scrapes the other side of the stock.
4. The Barrel has very slight vertical and lateral motion after cocking.
5. All of a sudden, after three cards all the other cards shots go 3" below. Tried nearly 50 shots, the last 20 were rested on the bench on top of three folded towels. Shots going 2-3" down to 5' o Clock Position. The vertical position of the rear sight is at its limit, cannot adjust further for elevation.
Considering selling the rifle at a loss and purchasing new one...Please advice if any thing can be done before i go for a new one.
Ice
I have taken the whole stock apart once again and put two steel washers on the inside. I have loosened the stock screws and before i read Mack The Knife's post had already used the glue but took it apart later. But these are not helping really. My problems galore seems to be endless and i am revising my opinion on these rifles. It may be that the reinstallation at the shop was not done very well. Here goes my list
1. The cocking link which is connected to the barrel in a H kind of section-the metal is being scraped on one side and it is accumulating there.
2. The cocking link scrapes one side of the Stock
3. The barrel scrapes the other side of the stock.
4. The Barrel has very slight vertical and lateral motion after cocking.
5. All of a sudden, after three cards all the other cards shots go 3" below. Tried nearly 50 shots, the last 20 were rested on the bench on top of three folded towels. Shots going 2-3" down to 5' o Clock Position. The vertical position of the rear sight is at its limit, cannot adjust further for elevation.
Considering selling the rifle at a loss and purchasing new one...Please advice if any thing can be done before i go for a new one.
Ice
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Iceman,
I recently got an old Air Rifle repaired from scratch - an ISW make.
The barrel portion had a slight shake and required Arc welding. I am hoping you dont have a similar problem... but your point (4) above is more in this line.
Also, the 'scraping' is mostly a matter of alignment and seems like a genuine manufacture defect. One possibility is a loss of alignment of the two flaps on the barrel assembly where the stock screws go into. If these are not bilaterally symmetrical, most of your problems come into picture.
Let us meet this weekend for sure and get this straightened out...
I recently got an old Air Rifle repaired from scratch - an ISW make.
The barrel portion had a slight shake and required Arc welding. I am hoping you dont have a similar problem... but your point (4) above is more in this line.
Also, the 'scraping' is mostly a matter of alignment and seems like a genuine manufacture defect. One possibility is a loss of alignment of the two flaps on the barrel assembly where the stock screws go into. If these are not bilaterally symmetrical, most of your problems come into picture.
Let us meet this weekend for sure and get this straightened out...
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Nah, I dont want to get into that.
Re-crowning is not something I want to get my hands dirty with.
Plus cutting the barrel would also involve sutting grooves for the front sights. I dont even know if that's a possibility.
If the 25's barrel is shorter, it should ideally be a direct replacement. Unless the dimensions around the breech area are different.
It was just a passing thought. If somebody can compare, do put the results up. It'll be much appreciated.
Mo.
Re-crowning is not something I want to get my hands dirty with.
Plus cutting the barrel would also involve sutting grooves for the front sights. I dont even know if that's a possibility.
If the 25's barrel is shorter, it should ideally be a direct replacement. Unless the dimensions around the breech area are different.
It was just a passing thought. If somebody can compare, do put the results up. It'll be much appreciated.
Mo.
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It maybe possible. Unfortunately, I dont have both the 25 and 35. But, considering the manufacture process at IHP, there is a good possibility that it can be interchanged
Never Shave without a Blade
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- mundaire
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This is something I too was curious about... I have a Model 25 (.22 cal) handy, so if someone else in Delhi has a Model 35 we could test out this theory... Meanwhile will watch this thread to see if anyone else has tried this out.Mo";p="53709 wrote: Does anybody have both the National 35 and 25?
I was wondering if the 25's barrel is shorter than the 35 and whether it can be interchanged with the 35 to get a carbine version.
Of course this cant be done if the difference is only with the power plants.
Can somebody find out?
BTW, one thing is certain - it cannot be a simple swap as the cocking arm is riveted onto the barrel+block combo. So the rivet will have to be removed to change the cocking arm to one with the correct length. Not hard to do, but will ensure that you cannot keep on swapping between barrel lengths, even if the other dimensions are correct....
Cheers!
Abhijeet
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Good observation Abhijeetmundaire";p="53743 wrote:This is something I too was curious about... I have a Model 25 (.22 cal) handy, so if someone else in Delhi has a Model 35 we could test out this theory... Meanwhile will watch this thread to see if anyone else has tried this out.Mo";p="53709 wrote: Does anybody have both the National 35 and 25?
I was wondering if the 25's barrel is shorter than the 35 and whether it can be interchanged with the 35 to get a carbine version.
Of course this cant be done if the difference is only with the power plants.
Can somebody find out?
BTW, one thing is certain - it cannot be a simple swap as the cocking arm is riveted onto the barrel+block combo. So the rivet will have to be removed to change the cocking arm to one with the correct length. Not hard to do, but will ensure that you cannot keep on swapping between barrel lengths, even if the other dimensions are correct....
Cheers!
Abhijeet
Can a one time try be given in changing only the barrel and not the complete block, or is this too risky?
Never Shave without a Blade
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- mundaire
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AFAIK the barrel is not screwed into the block, it is friction fitted; therefore it would seem that removing the barrel from the block (without damage) would require the services of a qualified machinist, and then you have the task of fitting it into the other block which would require a hydraulic press or something similar.TenX";p="53750 wrote:Good observation Abhijeet
Can a one time try be given in changing only the barrel and not the complete block, or is this too risky?
Why would anyone want to go through that much trouble? It would be far simpler to chop off the barrel to the required length!
Cheers!
Abhijeet
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Re: IHP "National" air rifles & pistols
My IHP .22 with a john knibbs spring is doing great but it doesnt give off that much smoke as it used to...is it gud or bad...
Regards,
R.Dhillon...
Regards,
R.Dhillon...
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I guess the factory-delivered gun might have had some oil in the barrel, which was causing the smoke. Once the oil wears off, the 'smoke' reduces.
If this is the case, there should be no problem at all...
If this is the case, there should be no problem at all...
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Yes, that is a simple solution. but as long as you are not using a scope, as Mo mentioned, making an additional groove for the fore-sight is an effort.sitar";p="53779 wrote: chop it...
i said it earlier
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