IHP "National" air rifles & pistols
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I must thank you all for your interest. I will re-commence the book at once
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Excellent stuff TenX, do let me know whenever it is done (and if you have any other nuggets as well) and I will upload it to the "knowledge base" here for everyone's ready reference.TenX";p="51604 wrote: I must thank you all for your interest. I will re-commence the book at once
Cheers!
Abhijeet
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Rubbish! I have the milk of human kindness running in my veins and never, not ever, has a cross word or look have I bequeathed on my poxy pupils. As witness to my claim, I call forward Pran, Inder, Ranjeet..... On seond thoughts, that's probably not such a good idea.TenX";p="51654 wrote:Hmm... cannot have them running away scared either
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Re: IHP "National" air rifles & pistols
hello rustham & tenx. need your valuable advice
last week i bought a national 25 of .17 calibre. shot 500 pellets through it, but still iam getting very bad grouping . the trigger mechanism felt too tight (as i feels numbness on index finger after a continious 10 shots).so i dismantled the gun to see what is wrong with it, & found that there are many projected metal parts around the trigger hole(the hole that permits the pin to hold it to the cylinder), i filed it out and now it is ok.
one more thing i noticed was , after cocking the gun the loading lever is rubbing against the compressed spring ,so ununiform pressure is felt on my hand if i close the barrel very slowly. the groupings are very bad about 3 inches from 10 mts with any brand of pellets( iam getting regular sub 1 inch group with my n 35 .17, but not able to get this on my new n25, trying all shooting techniques that i know. diff stances , diff pellets , prone position etc .checked breech seal, piston seal, barrel crowning ,sights, barrel pivot joint etc & its ok)
will filing the end of loading lever that rubs on the spring works?
if its not please let me know what is the problem with the gun.
waiting for your valuable reply. thanks
last week i bought a national 25 of .17 calibre. shot 500 pellets through it, but still iam getting very bad grouping . the trigger mechanism felt too tight (as i feels numbness on index finger after a continious 10 shots).so i dismantled the gun to see what is wrong with it, & found that there are many projected metal parts around the trigger hole(the hole that permits the pin to hold it to the cylinder), i filed it out and now it is ok.
one more thing i noticed was , after cocking the gun the loading lever is rubbing against the compressed spring ,so ununiform pressure is felt on my hand if i close the barrel very slowly. the groupings are very bad about 3 inches from 10 mts with any brand of pellets( iam getting regular sub 1 inch group with my n 35 .17, but not able to get this on my new n25, trying all shooting techniques that i know. diff stances , diff pellets , prone position etc .checked breech seal, piston seal, barrel crowning ,sights, barrel pivot joint etc & its ok)
will filing the end of loading lever that rubs on the spring works?
if its not please let me know what is the problem with the gun.
waiting for your valuable reply. thanks
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Make sure that the stock screws are adequately tight and do not come loose. Ditto for the sights.
Check the crown for burrs.
The scraping of the cocking link on the main-spring shouldn't affect accuracy. You can check the cocking link shoe for roughness but do not overdo the filing in case it is called for.
If the cocking shoe does not have a rough surface (which will most probably be the case), you can sleeve the piston from inside or use a main-spring with a smaller outer diameter.
Check the crown for burrs.
The scraping of the cocking link on the main-spring shouldn't affect accuracy. You can check the cocking link shoe for roughness but do not overdo the filing in case it is called for.
If the cocking shoe does not have a rough surface (which will most probably be the case), you can sleeve the piston from inside or use a main-spring with a smaller outer diameter.
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Its good that you rectified the trigger problem. Many a times, this seems to be one of the bigger bugs in getting a good grouping.
Some of the most important causes of bad grouping in air rifles are because of
1. Loose stock screws - two on either side, and one thru the trigger-guard (as Rustum has mentioned). Clean the screws and use a thread-lock if possible. Check for tightness occasionally.
2. Loose rear sights (as Rustum's mention). Check if there is any lateral of any type of play.
3. An unclean barrel, which might mostly not be your case.
4. Pellet matching the rifle. Different pellets may give different groupings, which you muct know. But the variation may not always be large. Use what best suits your gun.
5. Shooting technique. HAT - Holding Aiming Trigger Operation. Most important is consistency for all shots. But if you bench the rifle for checking the grouping, this should be much easier to verify. Try to firmly rest the rifle against a sand pillow or something similar (even a well folded rug will do), and check grouping. If you get a good grouping, then your holding may be the problem. If the recoil is not well managed by the shooter, it results in changes to the follow thru and eventually a bad grouping.
Frankly, I have not experimented with the cocking shoe and have no comments on that.
Some of the most important causes of bad grouping in air rifles are because of
1. Loose stock screws - two on either side, and one thru the trigger-guard (as Rustum has mentioned). Clean the screws and use a thread-lock if possible. Check for tightness occasionally.
2. Loose rear sights (as Rustum's mention). Check if there is any lateral of any type of play.
3. An unclean barrel, which might mostly not be your case.
4. Pellet matching the rifle. Different pellets may give different groupings, which you muct know. But the variation may not always be large. Use what best suits your gun.
5. Shooting technique. HAT - Holding Aiming Trigger Operation. Most important is consistency for all shots. But if you bench the rifle for checking the grouping, this should be much easier to verify. Try to firmly rest the rifle against a sand pillow or something similar (even a well folded rug will do), and check grouping. If you get a good grouping, then your holding may be the problem. If the recoil is not well managed by the shooter, it results in changes to the follow thru and eventually a bad grouping.
Frankly, I have not experimented with the cocking shoe and have no comments on that.
Never Shave without a Blade
.......^___________________^
....../ '---_________________ ]
...../_==O;;;;;;;;_______.:/
.....),---.(_(____)/.....
....// (..) ),----/....
...//____//......
..//____//......
.//____//......
..-------
.......^___________________^
....../ '---_________________ ]
...../_==O;;;;;;;;_______.:/
.....),---.(_(____)/.....
....// (..) ),----/....
...//____//......
..//____//......
.//____//......
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Re: IHP "National" air rifles & pistols
thank you, rustham & tenx for the reply.now i will check all these that have been mentioned, will post the results after doing that.
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Re: IHP "National" air rifles & pistols
TenX,
For my previous posts i got reply from gunmark and as per their suggestion and with help from Mr. Ganpathy P-10 now works very well with IHP35b.
Now i have a different problem.
I gave my rifle for O-Ring placement. After installation and 120 shots later the stock screw keep getting loose.( They told me to expect this) However the cocking link now scrapes the inside of the stock. The lower portion of the barrel which is connected to the cocking link also scrapes the other side of the stock.
The cocking action which used to be smooth is now rough and takes more effort.
I have tried all sorts of gimmicks with the stock crews. I am now planning to put two steel washer on the inside of the stock(between the metal and the stock). If you have any other suggestions please help. I have put around 900 pellets through it.
Ice
For my previous posts i got reply from gunmark and as per their suggestion and with help from Mr. Ganpathy P-10 now works very well with IHP35b.
Now i have a different problem.
I gave my rifle for O-Ring placement. After installation and 120 shots later the stock screw keep getting loose.( They told me to expect this) However the cocking link now scrapes the inside of the stock. The lower portion of the barrel which is connected to the cocking link also scrapes the other side of the stock.
The cocking action which used to be smooth is now rough and takes more effort.
I have tried all sorts of gimmicks with the stock crews. I am now planning to put two steel washer on the inside of the stock(between the metal and the stock). If you have any other suggestions please help. I have put around 900 pellets through it.
Ice
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If the cocking link is NOW scraping the inside of the stock that means that you have tightened the stock screws too much - do not overtighten it as the stock might crack / break. What you can do is remove the stock screws put in a washer and use something like thread lock or lock lite and that will take care of it.
However if the screws are getting loose only after 120 odd shots then i dont think this should be much of a problem.
Do let me know if this helps.
However if the screws are getting loose only after 120 odd shots then i dont think this should be much of a problem.
Do let me know if this helps.
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