Old IHP 25

[Chandan22]

Gentlemen,

I've recently been given a 20 year old IHP 25. This one seems to have been forgotten in a storeroom in a friends house, and was only pulled out when I mentioned buying a new rifle for my son, and the topic came up.

Long story short, I have it with me. It still cocks and fires. Haven't fired a pellet yet. I have some questions which I hope some of you may be able to help out with:

1. The O ring at the breech looks flattened and practically polished smooth. Can this be replaced with a new synthetic one? If so, any tips on where I can get one in Delhi?
2. There is some amount of light rusting on the cylinder edges, where it meets the stock. What would be the best way to get rid of the rust? Can I just sand away and then repaint or something?
3. Anyone has any idea about disassembly of the mechanism from the stock?
4. The locking mechanism for the barrel sometimes does not engage. Any suggestions on checking and repairing?
5. I have an old 4x scope. However, in absence of existing rails, any suggestions on how to go about mounting a scope? Also, is mounting a scope on a breakbarrel accurate, since the barrel is not always in constant alignment?

Thanks
~C

[aadhaulya]

Chandan,

I cleaned out the rust from my old AR with emery paper starting with 440 grit. and gave it a good finish using 600 grit paper then finally with a 800 grit. Then did a cold bluing job and it has come out beautifully.
For the Scope I fixed a rail from Kovibazar with araldite. But I am sure that it would not be so accurate due to the play in the barrel.
Other details I do not know about as I have gone into air gunning very recently. And that too not seriously till now.

Regards

Atul

[brihacharan]

Gentlemen,
I've recently been given a 20 year old IHP 25. This one seems to have been forgotten in a storeroom in a friends house, and was only pulled out when I mentioned buying a new rifle for my son, and the topic came up.

Long story short, I have it with me. It still cocks and fires. Haven't fired a pellet yet. I have some questions which I hope some of you may be able to help out with:

1. The O ring at the breech looks flattened and practically polished smooth. Can this be replaced with a new synthetic one? If so, any tips on where I can get one in Delhi?
2. There is some amount of light rusting on the cylinder edges, where it meets the stock. What would be the best way to get rid of the rust? Can I just sand away and then repaint or something?
3. Anyone has any idea about disassembly of the mechanism from the stock?
4. The locking mechanism for the barrel sometimes does not engage. Any suggestions on checking and repairing?
5. I have an old 4x scope. However, in absence of existing rails, any suggestions on how to go about mounting a scope? Also, is mounting a scope on a break-barrel accurate, since the barrel is not always in constant alignment?
Thanks
~C

Hi Chandan,
The answer to your queries.....
1. It still cocks and fires. Haven't fired a pellet yet - Never dry fire an air rifle as it can damage the seal & piston!
2. Rusting either on barrel or the receiver - Can be sanded off using emery paper & applying 'Ballistol' cold bluing liquid...
3. Remove the old 'O' ring, clean the depression, insert a thin metal washer & put a 'rubber / nitrile or neoprene 'O' ring available at most hardware stores...
4. Removing the action from the stock is easy - Remove the 2 screws on either side of the fore-end stock & also the one near the trigger guard & the action will come off the stock....
5. The reason for the barrel not engaging could be either....
a) Lack of lubrication - a few drops of machine oil should work...
b)Wearing off of the locking 'lug' - this needs replacement of the worn-out lug along with a tiny spring within & this requires getting the spare lug & spring + a bit of minor expertise - if you can't do it then the services of a good gun mechanic is necessary....
6. I have an old 4x scope - Ensure that your scope is AR rated as otherwise the cross hairs can get damaged due to the double recoil of the AR. Scope rails (11 mm) can be ordered on-line & fixed on to the receiver...this again needs exact alignment & minor engineering expertise...any good gunsmith should be able to do this.
Good Luck!
Briha

[Chandan22]

Hello,

Thanks for the inputs.

How exactly can one fix the rails? Drill into the cylinder and screw them on? Aralditing doesn't seem to be a sustainable method.
Also, if I've got to drill and fix the rail, how can the alignment issues be handled?

~C

[aadhaulya]

Chandan,

When I was experimenting the same doubt came to my mind if you drill and tap the hole. It has to be precise otherwise the whole exercise is a waste. And the damge is permanent if the fellow doing the job does not have the precise measuring equipment. Also he should know how to use it.
That is the reason I like araldite, it can be removed and with no permanent damage. Go in for a drop of any glue then see if the scope is properly sighted. Then you can mark the position of the rail and fix it permanently with araldite and if you want you can braze it on the cylinder also.
Use a 'Bore Sighter' to center the scope.
I have the 'bore sighter that you are welcome to borrow for your project. I also have the brazing equipment in my home workshop. But I would suggest a professional job by a road side car radiator repairer fellow for brazing.

Regards

Atul

'

[brihacharan]

[quote="Chandan22"Hello,
Thanks for the inputs.
How exactly can one fix the rails? Drill into the cylinder and screw them on? Aralditing doesn't seem to be a sustainable method.
Also, if I've got to drill and fix the rail, how can the alignment issues be handled?
~C[/quote]

Hi Chandan,
> I would suggest that you drill & tap the receiver - apply a light coat of araldite on both surfaces & then screw the rail on...I followed this method & my scope rails have held for over 5000 shots / 2 years & will continue to do so

> Here's how you go about it.....
1. Tie a string to the fore sight post & draw it straight through the 'V' groove of the rear sight...this will automatically align the 'centering' of the 'line of sight'.... I would recommend that you stick a strip of white paper on the receiver so that you can trace the string's line on it....
2. Once done mark the centre of the scope rail & place it on the receiver....the gap between the rail's end & receiver's end should be 1/2" to 3/4"...
3. Trace out the scope rail on the paper - then place the scope rail & mark the position of the screws....
4. Drill 4mm holes & tap them...now remove the paper & apply araldite on both the surfaces & using flat head screws fix the scope rail on to the receiver....
5. Most importantly ensure that the screws do not go beyond the inner surface of the receiver....they should be in level with it as otherwise you'll have cocking problem....
6. Leave it overnight....Presto! your scope rail is all fixed & ready to mount the your scope
Good Luck!!!!
Briha

[Chandan22]

Thanks Briha,

Logical and simple, though I'm sure executing it with finesse will be a challenge.

Unfortunately I don't have a fixed drill/tap. So will require to go to some dealer and pay exorbitantly for this task. Lets see.

~C

[aadhaulya]

Thanks Briha,

Logical and simple, though I'm sure executing it with finesse will be a challenge.

Unfortunately I don't have a fixed drill/tap. So will require to go to some dealer and pay exorbitantly for this task. Lets see.

~C

The dealer would be expensive. once you have marked the hole positions just take it to a machine shop and get it done. Better still would be to get the hole drilled by someone who has a drill stand, and tap it yourself using a 4mm tap that should cost you about Rs. 150 including the tap handle.

Regards

Atul