Rws 34 main spring broken

[kiranjosep]

Hi, I'm new here
I brought a new rws 34p from pyramyd air in July 2013.
There was a slight scratching sound while cocking. When I searched the Web I thaught the main spring was dry and I needed to lub it. So I added a few drops of lub on the main spring. The noise was there even after lubrication but apart from that it was Ok.(chrony showed speed bw 924 and 946 fps) I've shot bw 2500 nd 3000 pellets with it.
A few weeks ago the sound increased very much to a loud screeching sound so I opened up the gun to apply some grease.
But when I opened it I was shocked to find that the main spring was broken in four places.
Please advice me on what to do. I cant send it back to pyramid air due to shipping charges and customs.
I've seen some tuning kits on the net like jm, vortek etc.
Has anyone imported any of these, please advice.
Also I heard of target-tune.in I'm not sure what to do. Please advice.
Thanking you in advance
Kiran joseph.

[PRITAM PATEL]

same happened to my diana 48 long years back

I put Jim's spring and it is working smoothly since than ( almost 12 years)

don't know about vortek

[kiranjosep]

From where did you get the spring ?
Did you import it?
I would like to buy one.

[snIPer]

http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/pag ... 251327.htm

[brihacharan]

From where did you get the spring ? Did you import it? I would like to buy one.

> Try www.relishsports.com - they may be able to help you (they are in India)
Briha

[PRITAM PATEL]

From where did you get the spring ?
Did you import it?
I would like to buy one.

http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/cat ... 512885.htm 12 foot pound kit

http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/cat ... 514146.htm moderate power kit

just email Jim and pay , he will ship to india

hope this helps

also get spare piston seal for future need ( u will save shipping)

http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/cat ... /43075.htm

[kiranjosep]

Thanks a lot guys.
I hope there wont be any problem with customs.
If anyone has experience. with customs Pls advice
thanks again

[mercury]

Kiran....you will not have a problem with customs. I have shipped a couple of Vortek kits and had no problems. Both Vortek and JM kits are excellent.

but before installing the kit , you may need to check if there has been any damage ( galling) in the cylinder. Broken springs can cut up the internal of the cylinder a lot. besides the spring , it could also have been the the piston skirt grinding on the cylinder ( seems to be a pretty common problem with the 34). there is a lot of upward pressure ( by the cocking shoe) on the skirt of the piston when the spring is compressed during the cocking stroke. this causes the piston skirt to scrape ( for want of a better word) the upper rear end of the cylinder/receiver. check the upper part of the piston skirt and it may look a bit more shiny than the rest of the piston...you will also see this in the receiver.

you may need to lightly hone the receiver if there is galling. also a little extra molly on the upper piston skirt will help while installing the new kit/ spring.

[kiranjosep]

Kiran....you will not have a problem with customs. I have shipped a couple of Vortek kits and had no problems. Both Vortek and JM kits are excellent.

but before installing the kit , you may need to check if there has been any damage ( galling) in the cylinder. Broken springs can cut up the internal of the cylinder a lot. besides the spring , it could also have been the the piston skirt grinding on the cylinder ( seems to be a pretty common problem with the 34). there is a lot of upward pressure ( by the cocking shoe) on the skirt of the piston when the spring is compressed during the cocking stroke. this causes the piston skirt to scrape ( for want of a better word) the upper rear end of the cylinder/receiver. check the upper part of the piston skirt and it may look a bit more shiny than the rest of the piston...you will also see this in the receiver.

you may need to lightly hone the receiver if there is galling. also a little extra molly on the upper piston skirt will help while installing the new kit/ spring.

Hi mercury
Thanks for the advice. I checked the inside of the cylinder and there is no visible damage.
But the spring cut into the rear plastic guide on which the spring is supported and is stuck to it. But luckily the JM kit has both front and rear guides included. So no problems. I am planning to buy the JM kit soon.
One more thing, is it Ok to use lithium based grease instead of molly grease.
I have a jar of "Bosch Extended life grease" It is suitable for high velocity and temperature use (used for gears, suspension, clutch bearing, joints etc)
But it is lithium based and I don't want to waste it.

[mercury]

Kiran....stay with molly.

if you have decided on a JM kit order the molly from him too. the small can will last you for years !!

as for piston seals , you might as well get one ( save shipping , as pointed out ); but if the oem diana seal is not damaged , use it. i find the diana oem seals superior to after market seals.

[PRITAM PATEL]

. I am planning to buy the JM kit soon.
One more thing, is it Ok to use lithium based grease instead of molly grease.
I have a jar of "Bosch Extended life grease" It is suitable for high velocity and temperature use (used for gears, suspension, clutch bearing, joints etc)
But it is lithium based and I don't want to waste it.

Jim's kit includes small packs of moly grease n tar, which will last at least 3-4 overhauls ( may be 5 years of service )

I still have some left which supplied 12 years back

[kiranjosep]

Hi everyone
Its been a long time since my last post. I was a bit busy.
Anyway I thought I'll write my experience with JM spring.
I ordered the spring and seal from JM on 28th April. It cost me $69 for the spring,$9.95 for the seal $7 for insurance and $20 for shipping. He shipped it on the same day. The package was described as repair parts so there was no problem with customs. I received the package by 5th May, but I didn't get the time to try it out untill now.
The package contained the spring with the guides, sample tar and the apex seal. There was some light tar already on the guides. A little search on the net I found out that the sample tar was heavy/velocity tar and it should be used only on the spring and not on the seal. So I searched the net and found precihole super Molly paste.
First I opened up my rifle and cleaned the insides removing most of the grease, I didn't dare open the trigger mechanism.
The insides of the cylinder where the cocking mechanism slides and the portion near the trigger were sharp, so when I assembled the gun last time there was some small damage on the old seal but I think it will last a few more years so I didn't change it. I used a fine file and smoothened out the sharp edges and burrs.
Then I applied Molly paste on the piston and seal and assembled it. Then I applied the heavy tar on the spring and guide and installed it. I used my old painting brush to apply the Molly and tar. You should use a new brush because the hair on the brush fell off and had to be removed from the grease.
After that I reassembled the gun and tested it out.
That's when I realised my mistake. I had applied too much Molly paste on the seal. After the third shot it started dieseling heavily. So I had to disassemble it again. I wiped off the grease from the potion seal and the insides of the cylinder. But some of the Molly paste had already gotten into the compression chamber. I reassembled the gun and tried it out again. Now the dieseling has reduced, the loud sound has stopped but there is still some smoke in the barrel after a few shots. So I am cleaning the barrel with the pull through after every few shots. Now I've placed the gun vertically hoping the grease will flow down eventually. Next time I'll go easy on the grease.
Apart from the over greasing problem, everything is fine. The cocking action is smoother. About the accuracy and velocity, I'll have to put a few more rounds through it.

[kanwar76]

Dieseling will screw your seals. Make sure there is no lube on the face of piston seal. if i were you, I will open it again clean compression chamber and other parts with surgical spirit and apply lube again at correct places.

Just my 2 paisa

-Inder

[kiranjosep]

I think your right. I guess I'll do it once again today but I have a few doubts. I heard that surgical spirit won't be able to remove grease. Have you tried it before ?
Should I pour the spirit into the compression chamber?
How to remove the spirit from the chamber after degreasing?
please help
thanks
Kiran

Dieseling will screw your seals. Make sure there is no lube on the face of piston seal. if i were you, I will open it again clean compression chamber and other parts with surgical spirit and apply lube again at correct places.

Just my 2 paisa

-Inder

[Big Daddy]

Hi Kiran,
I have the same gun. I generally apply 2 drops of silicon oil through the chamber port every 1500 to 2000 shots. Does the trick.
As Kanwar mentioned, dieseling is bad.
You should only apply a very thin layer of molly.
Would advice you wipe off some molly from the compression chamber using a rod and a lint free cloth.
BTW,which pellets suite your toy best?

BD