Linseed oil

[winnie_the_pooh]

There are people who have asked about using linseed as a stock finish.This might serve that purpose.Linseed oil never really dries and leaves a mess.This has driers added and so should be more suitable.Have not used it so don't blame if it does not work out.

http://www.camlin.com/catalog/artists-r ... drying-oil

[hvj1]

WTP
You may have a point there, in hindsight I remember applying linseed oil to my cricket bat. Even after keeping the bat out in the sun, the next day's use would involve scraping of the dirt sticking to the surface of the bat due to contact with the ball and dust collected when the bat came in contact with the ground. I guess the same thing may apply to a stock.
BR

[tirpassion]

hello,
If I may add on a word...

I use linseed oil on my stocks of the muzzleloaders and even on the grip of my AP and FP. You need to add on a very small part of dryer compound (1/2 drops for a tablespoon of linseed oil), mix it evenly and apply without much delay. The wood will soak in the oil after the first coating. Apply until you see that the wood does not soak in any more. Then remove the excess oil off the surface with a dry clean cloth and let it dry. In a few hours it will be dry. Your excess oil mixture will be of no use anymore after a few hours because it will develop a thin kind of film.

The advantage of linseed oil for the pistol shooters is that the stock/grip adheres better in hand. Any oil mixture with resin will render the stock glossy, smooth and shiny and will seal the pores of the wood which is nice for long gun stocks but not for handguns.

best regards
tirpassion

[brihacharan]

[quote="hvj1"]
You may have a point there, in hindsight I remember applying linseed oil to my cricket bat. Even after keeping the bat out in the sun, the next day's use would involve scraping of the dirt sticking to the surface of the bat due to contact with the ball and dust collected when the bat came in contact with the ground. I guess the same thing may apply to a stock.
My experience too
Briha
> However I would recommend:
1. Soak a turkish towel in hot water - wring it completely & wrap it around the gun stock & leave it for 15 minutes.
2. The heat helps to open the wood pores
3. Remove external moisture from the gun stock with a dry cloth & apply 'Boiled Linseed Oil' & rub it deeply - 2 to 3 coats should suffice.
4. Using a dry cloth remove as much surface oil as possible & sand it with extra fine sand paper(the linseed oil would have already soaked in)
5. Apply 'Carnoba Wax' - 2 to 3 coats & rub it well till a smooth matte finish appears.
6. Applying wax once in 6 months makes the Gun Stock look rich.
Briha

[winnie_the_pooh]

Soak a turkish towel in hot water - wring it completely & wrap it around the gun stock & leave it for 15 minutes.

You will have a sorry looking stock at the end of those 15 minutes.

[brihacharan]

Soak a turkish towel in hot water - wring it completely & wrap it around the gun stock & leave it for 15 minutes.

You will have a sorry looking stock at the end of those 15 minutes.

> My experience was otherwise.
> At end of 15mts I used a hair dryer on the stock.
> Pl check back on my post "Maha Make-Over" of my IHP - Note the finish on the stock
Briha

[cottage cheese]

Sorry to fish out such an old thread.... the biggest problem with Linseed Oil finish is the profusion of misinformation.... and partially delivered 'knowledge'... readily available on the net. The first and foremost thing to understand in using Linseed oil is it dries not by evaporation but by oxidation. Putting it in the sun is not the best idea. That being said, using linseed oil the 'traditional' way is tedious and a significantly time consuming affair to say the least. Not something you do in a hurry job for an inexpensive project. I use it only when people understand this and are ok with waiting and consider it a premium-ish job. I prefer not to have any dependency on proprietary or commercial brand because of the inconsistent availability of imports. I've been using regular fauji/ordnance grade Linseed Oil ...which has worked for me for a while now. I have no idea of its composition as regards driers and the like but I religiously follow the sand, seal, fill and rub sequence which does result in very good finishes.... though it does take a very long time... sometimes a month or more. Linseed oil finish is not compulsory tacky. Older Military stocks were immersed in Linseed oil to saturate the wood and then deliberately left a wee bit tacky- it resulted in a dull finish that was appropriate for military use and the tackiness provided a better slip proof gripping surface. The oil saturated wood also naturally disallowed entry of moisture into the wood. For civilian stocks where aesthetics are regarded higher, the application process is very different and so are the results. Very thin coats rubbed in by hand is the key.... and I mean very thin. People make the mistake of applying thick-ish coats in the expectation that they'd dry like conventional varnish or paint. It'll never dry that way...adding driers may help speed up the process but remember that most driers are frighteningly toxic and too much will also cause the finish to dry too fast and thick and become 'brittle' leading to cracks and flaking. Very thin hand rubbed coats (yet again) is the key. The first 10-15 coats usually are disappointing but once it starts building up, there's nothing more satisfying. There is a bit of conflicting information on what exactly is Boliled Linseed Oil... some say its... well...boiled, some say its just a peculiar term that actually refers to LO mixed with certain driers, while a another says its LO mixed with turpentine/mineral spirits and brought to and maintained at a gentle non-smoking 'boil'.... it is applied hot and penetrates deep and darkens the stock significantly and rather quickly. This, however, should not be considered 'THE' way, and rather only one of several methods.

[timmy]

Gentlemen: GB Linspeed oil is the way around the problems you are talking about.

I have used this and cannot recommend it highly enough. Put it on with a rag or your fingers!

http://www.lin-speed.com

I'm sorry to say that I can only advise its use on gun stocks. For cricket bats, you are on your own!

[TwoRivers]

Most of the posts seem to indicate that it is being used incorrectly, being applied to heavily. A few drops on the palm of your hand, rubbed thoroughly onto the wood, given time to dry before another application. This applies to "boiled" linseed oil, not raw, which may act differently.

[Mark]

Boiled linseed oil is the oil with the drying agents added, as mentioned the raw linseed oil will be sticky for a couple weeks in my experience. Another natural finish that has worked for me is tung oil. Also, what may be interesting to some is I just finished a knife handle using superglue last month and was pretty happy with how it turned out, looked nice and it certainly sealed up the wood!

[winnie_the_pooh]

I just finished a knife handle using superglue

+1...used a mask when sanding between coats...and you do not really need to sand the wood super smooth as the glue fills up all the pores.Even small scratches magically disappear.

[bennedose]

I used to love the smell of Linseed oil on my cricket bat. Need to experiment with my uselss SISCO air rifle stock..

[essdee1972]

Mark, how exactly did you apply the superglue? I assume it was a slower drying one than the Fevikwik we have here? I am having some issues in finishing the handle of a knife I am making for my junior, hence asking.

[brihacharan]

Boiled linseed oil is the oil with the drying agents added, as mentioned the raw linseed oil will be sticky for a couple weeks in my experience. Another natural finish that has worked for me is Tung oil. Also, what may be interesting to some is I just finished a knife handle using superglue last month and was pretty happy with how it turned out, looked nice and it certainly sealed up the wood!

Hi Mark,
> Would please share the procedure about (your experience with)using 'superglue' to fix the knife handle?
> Pics if possible
Briha

[Mark]

Please bear with my typing here, as I am using a tablet which is somewhat of a pain.

Anyway, I made a rope knife with walnut slab style handles, then I made some copper pins for the handle. I finished the handle with 220 grit sandpaper, then just applied the superglue straight from the tube on to the handle. I put my finger in a plastic sandwich bag and used that to rub it all over the wood. A couple spots it soaked in so I just applied more there. When the entire handle was coated I placed it by a lamp, and when I checked an hour later it was dry. I gaave it a rubbbing with extra fine ssteel wool and called it finished.

It is 4:45am right now, I'll post a picture this afternoon.