Indians For Guns

Hi All,

I am a proud owner of a .22 Air Rifel since last 20 years. I have been occasionally cleaning it and oiling it but of late the range has decreased. I can see the pelet deviate after 10-15 mts. Can anyone suggest any ideas ?

cheers,

Goldeneye

Greetiings Goldeneye!

What brand and model is your air rifle?

Goldeneye,

If you have been putting oil into the cylinder through the cocking slot or tranfer port, then you have most probably ruined the piston seal and/or the main-spring.

You need to replace these to get back the orignal muzzle velocity.

Piston seals and main-springs can also wear out with use.

Mack The Knife

Mack The Knife Bana";p="19322 wrote:Goldeneye,

If you have been putting oil into the cylinder through the cocking slot or tranfer port, then you have most probably ruined the piston seal and/or the main-spring.

What are you saying here Mack The Knife - putting chamber oil through transfer port is not the correct way? or are you talking about over-lubing?? I put chamber oil in my gun through the transfer port too - is there anything wrong with that?

Vivek

Mack The Knife Bana";p="19322 wrote:Goldeneye,

If you have been putting oil into the cylinder through the cocking slot or tranfer port, then you have most probably ruined the piston seal and/or the main-spring.

You need to replace these to get back the orignal muzzle velocity.

Piston seals and main-springs can also wear out with use.

Mack The Knife

Hi Mack The Knife,
Does this apply for leather washers or for the other synthetic ones (teflon if im not mistaken) only.
JSS

vivek009";p="20109 wrote: What are you saying here Mack The Knife - putting chamber oil through transfer port is not the correct way? or are you talking about over-lubing?? I put chamber oil in my gun through the transfer port too - is there anything wrong with that?

Vivek

Vivek,

You don't say what you use, how much use and how often you use it. If you haven't had a problem (excessive smoking, louder muzzle reports, etc.) then you have nothing to worry about.

I for one do not use it. Someone recently brought me a bottle of the stuff (think it was from Crosman) but I told him to take it away.

Correct lubing of the appropriate internal components should have your airgun on song for at least 5000 shots, if not more.

Over lubing is obviously not recommended.

Mack The Knife

susheel_john";p="20110 wrote:Hi Mack The Knife,
Does this apply for leather washers or for the other synthetic ones (teflon if im not mistaken) only.
JSS

Susheel,

I am more than a bit hazy when it comes to leather washers, so cannot comment on that. However, I think I would be right to say that you shouldn't let your leather washer completely dry out. In the old days, leather washers were soaked overnight in oil (I forgetwhich) and the excess was squeezed out before the washer was screwed on to the piston. I am not sure what oil is used for the chamber oil being sold in the market these days and would hesitate to recommend them for leather washers. It would be best to clarify this point by asking the retailer or better still the manufacturer.

As already mentioned in my reply to Vivek, I have never felt the need to put even one drop of chamber oil in any of my airguns that have synthetic washers, be they rubber or Teflon/PTFE.

However, this is just my opinion and not to be taken as gospel.

Mack The Knife

Mack The Knife,
What would be your solution to air rifles that have a real hard trigger.Been thinking if I could file some part of the trigger mechanism to make the trigger respond to a softer pull without making the trigger mechanism unstable.

Pran

Mack The Knife,
What would be your solution to air rifles that have a real hard trigger?

In your particular case - sell the rifle, save up some more and buy something half decent. I honestly thought the safety was on...

You will need to stone the sear faces to make the trigger release somewhat civilised. However, you will need to do a little at a time and keep checking repeatedly. You should also plan on re-hardening the sear faces you have stoned.

You then put a smear of moly grease on the bearing faces, re-assemble the rifle and pray!

Mack The Knife

P.S.: Don't use a rough grit. Hard as the trigger release is, you would need to take away very little metal to smoothen things out. I still say, sell the bloody thing because you could end up with a dangerous gun if it's not done right.

[quote="Mack The Knife Bana";p="20128"]

sell the rifle, save up some more and buy something half decent.

[/quote]

Was expecting that

Seriously, it would take a year's time before I can buy a decent air rifle and I plan to retain this one till then or till I have access to a better one at the range.

Will disassemble the rifle tomorrow and have a look at the sear.

>You should also plan on re-hardening the sear faces you have stoned.

By heat treating?

Pran

PS:Would really appreciate it if I could do the sanding in your presence just to make sure I don't overdo it.

[quote="Mack The Knife Bana";p="20113"]

vivek009";p="20109 wrote:Vivek,

You don't say what you use, how much use and how often you use it. If you haven't had a problem (excessive smoking, louder muzzle reports, etc.) then you have nothing to worry about.

I for one do not use it. Someone recently brought me a bottle of the stuff (think it was from Crosman) but I told him to take it away.

Correct lubing of the appropriate internal components should have your airgun on song for at least 5000 shots, if not more.

Over lubing is obviously not recommended.

Mack The Knife

[/quote]

So what's your recommendation on lubing Mack The Knife. I have seen several differing ones and am not sure of how much and how often to lube the chamber. For instance, the Crosman manual says "one drop of silicone Chamber Oil every few hundred shots". At other places, I've read that lubing should not be done unless you hear the piston squeak while cocking. A few hundred could mean 300 or 900, while its possible that even after a few thousand shots, you don't hear any squeaking. So, how much and how often??

As for what I use - I also bought the Crosman Silicone Chamber Oil when I bought the gun, and that's what I've used so far - though only once - and my gun has been through 800 shots.

regards
Vivek

So what's your recommendation on lubing Mack The Knife.

See the 'sticky' in the gun smithing section.

As for the proprietory chamber oil, it's best you follow the manufacturer's directions.

Mack The Knife

Mack The Knife,
What i have read in a lot of magazines is that leather washers need a drop of oil once u hear a squeaking sound when you are cocking.
I have also seen ppl effectively use oil on leather washers, a drop of a good lubricant should last for around 3000 shots, infact i have used the same on my 3 guns and they seem to work fine. Ofcourse one shouldnt over oil or use combustable oils as it will cause "dieseling" and damage the components.
Regarding the synthetic washer you mentioned - where can i get one (locally -bangalore) - i have always wanted to try one of those.
The above is what i have gathered and i would be happy to know your valuable views on that.

susheel_john";p="20164 wrote:Regarding the synthetic washer you mentioned - where can i get one (locally -bangalore) - i have always wanted to try one of those.

No place that I know off. The PTFE washers ued to be made by a friend of mine but he is now based in Dubai.

When needed, I import them.

Mack The Knife