How to become a Marksman.

Mo · Post by Mo » Sat Oct 04, 2008 1:27 am

While browsing, I stumbled on these tips. Most of us already know this. But some may not. The original link can be found at the bottom of the article.

How to Become a Marksman.

Things You’ll Need:

* Rifle
* Knowledge of the Rifle
* Targets
* Ammunition
* Firing range
* Eye and ear protection
* Sandbag or bipod

Perfecting the Shooting Position

Step1
The best and only firing position that you should be using at this point is the prone supported firing position. The use of a shooting mat will help your comfort level. Lay prone with the rifle on your firing shoulder. Use the sandbag to rest your rifle on. The stock only should be touching the sandbag. It is very important that the barrel is not resting on anything.

Step2
Place the butt stock firmly in your shoulder. Make sure that your body is in line with your rifle. Most untrained shooters will cant their body to one side. This is wrong.

Step3
Spread your legs more than shoulder's width apart. Your toes should be pointing outward.

Step4
Your non-firing hand should be used to support the rifle butt.

Step5
Everytime that you get behind the sights, make sure that your cheek is resting in the same position. This is called your stockweld.

Step6
Get your natural point of aim. This means, get settled comfortably behind the rifle, look down your optic, close your eyes, and take a deep breath. When you open your eyes, your crosshairs or sight appeture will be on your natural point of aim. When adjusting your natural point of aim be sure to move your whole body, not just your upper body.

Acquiring the Perfect Target - Aiming and Breathing Control

Step1
After achieving your steady position and getting your natural point of aim, you will need to get the proper eye relief. Eye relief is the distance your eye needs to be away from the optic. On open sights this can vary from person to person. On scopes the recommended eye relief should be in the user's manual.

Step2
Achieve proper sight alignment. When you look through your optic, you want a full field of view. Meaning, no dark shadows or cresent inside the scope.

Step3
Use the same sight picture every time.

Step4
Firing should only be done at the natural moment of pause in your breathing. Either the top of an inhale or bottom of an exhale. Which ever natural pause you choose, keep it the same every time.

Step5
You can extend this natural pause if need be, but keep in mind that the maximum safe period for a respiratory pause is 8 to 10 seconds. Anything more than this will cause uncontrollable moving.

Taking the Shot - Trigger Control and Follow Through

Step1
To achieve proper trigger control, place your finger as low on the trigger as possible. Use a relaxed grip.

Step2
Do not anticipate the recoil of the weapon.

Step3
Do not jerk the trigger. Pull the trigger, don't squeeze.

Step4
Your follow through happens after pulling the trigger, but is just as important as any of the other fundamentals. As you fire your head should remain in firm contact with the stock.

Step5
Keep your finger on the trigger all the way to the rear.

Step6
Continue looking down your sights, and keep your muscles relaxed.

Step7
Avoid reaction to sound or recoil, and release the trigger.

If you are a casual target shooter then you can expect to notice a dramatic change in your accuracy after applying these fundamentals. That being said, it takes consitence practice to become an expert marksman.

Hope this helps. If nothing of the sort has been documented, I suggest making this a sticky.

Original Links and Credits:
http://www.ehow.com/how_4492359_become- ... -part.html
http://www.ehow.com/how_4492380_become- ... -part.html
http://www.ehow.com/how_4492396_become- ... -part.html

Post by **kanwar76** » Sat Oct 04, 2008 1:32 am

Step3
Do not jerk the trigger. Pull the trigger, don't squeeze.

Is it right? I was under the impression that for rifles you squeeze the trigger and for shotgun you need to pull it

I am

-Inder

Mo · Post by Mo » Sat Oct 04, 2008 1:35 am

Yeah, even I've read a lot about how you have to squeeze the trigger.

But this guy's a former US Army Sniper.. I'm not arguing.. You can have a go at him though..

Post by **kanwar76** » Sat Oct 04, 2008 1:38 am

Mo";p="54957 wrote:Yeah, even I've read a lot about how you have to squeeze the trigger.

But this guy's a former US Army Sniper.. I'm not arguing.. You can have a go at him though..

Former....

I hope he didn't get fired

On a serious note, Can somebody please clear this doubt

-Inder

Mo · Post by Mo » Sat Oct 04, 2008 1:40 am

He he..

I hope he doesnt read your post. If he does, mention me in your Will for the Diana. I will bear the burden for you

@Mods: Once verified, please correct the original post, so that one doesnt need to read the replies to know the correct procedure. Thanks.

nagarifle · Post by **nagarifle** » Sat Oct 04, 2008 10:26 am

yap funny as it may be i have come across many who jerk/snatch the trigger and shot goes astray. in Rifle the best way is to squeeze the trigger, that is slowly pull the trigger.

one other point is with western army man they like to give instructional to people as if they are numbwitts. or low IQ. thus it sounds funny to us. But make sense in army mind.

oh ya do not forget he is a yank and they not only talk but also drive on the wrong side.(sorry Mark)

sitar · Post by **sitar** » Sat Oct 04, 2008 11:59 am

why the barrel should not rest on anything

not even sand bag

why??

TenX · Post by **TenX** » Sat Oct 04, 2008 12:21 pm

Because sand bags dont like it

Actually,
The barrel itself is housed in the stock, which is meant to be held. Therefore, when the stock is held well, the barrel has a natural rythm of vibration (when the bullet passes thru) which forms the overall picture.

If you lay the barrel in direct contact with anything, the harmonic vibrations of the barrel are disturbed, which can cause erratic fliers, large groups or shifting point of aim.

Some guns will even have a series of spring washers in the bedding screws, to hold the barrel well, and yet allow for the barrel's vibrations to be unaffected.

nagarifle · Post by **nagarifle** » Sat Oct 04, 2008 12:32 pm

agree with this one, the barrel itself should be free from contact with other objects.

sitar · Post by **sitar** » Sat Oct 04, 2008 2:15 pm

TenX";p="54985 wrote:Because sand bags dont like it

Actually,
The barrel itself is housed in the stock, which is meant to be held. Therefore, when the stock is held well, the barrel has a natural rythm of vibration (when the bullet passes thru) which forms the overall picture.

If you lay the barrel in direct contact with anything, the harmonic vibrations of the barrel are disturbed, which can cause erratic fliers, large groups or shifting point of aim.

Some guns will even have a series of spring washers in the bedding screws, to hold the barrel well, and yet allow for the barrel's vibrations to be unaffected.

the barrel has a natural rythm of vibration............

very well said

just wanted to hear that

even some exeperienced persons say that the size of barrel increases during firing and returns to normal as soon as bullet passes

please correct me if wrong

nagarifle · Post by **nagarifle** » Sat Oct 04, 2008 2:33 pm

even some experienced persons say that the size of barrel increases during firing and returns to normal as soon as bullet passes

please correct me if wrong

is this ref to length or dia?

well physic i think say that heat expends metal (was a total failure in physic, well never sat a class in my life)

MoA · Post by **MoA** » Sat Oct 04, 2008 3:24 pm

Triggers on target rifles tend to be very crisp and very very light. On my rifles I tend to have them break at about 1/4 lb at most.

Barrles do have a natural vibration. Also nodes where they align perfectly with the PoA hence the practise of loading for OBT.

For example the OBT or Optimal Barrel Time for a 27.5 inch barrel at node 5 I think is 1.405 ms. Hence you want a load that will occupy at least 85% of case capacity and burn at least 98.5% of the powder before the bullet leaves the barrel.

Then comes calibers... which tend to perform better at certain velocities. For example for the .260 Remington that seems to be 2750 fps.

Once these are verified by shooting, chrono-ing etc. You play with the OAL, and see where you get the best groups for that load. And then determine that as your match load.

There are other things that also play into accuracy of a load, particularly around brass prepping but I will leave that for another time.

Ultimately shooting for accuracy is a combination of good shooting techniques, equipment, and loads. However the most important factor is the person behind the gun, and lots and lots and lots of practise.

The results before final tuning using OBT

Now time to begin playing with OAL which should with minor tuning of the powder charge result is a group about half this size

sitar · Post by **sitar** » Sat Oct 04, 2008 3:59 pm

@ naga

offcourse diameter of barrel

due to pressure not because of heat

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How to become a Marksman.

How to become a Marksman.

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