How to maintain a rimfire boltaction rifle.
Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 2:36 pm
Please note that this is how I clean my rimfire rifle. Others may do it differently and still have no cause to complain.
1) If the rifle is not going to be used in a wet or very humid area, wipe off the oil from the metal surfaces with a clean rag since dust tends to cling to oil. Conversely, if the rifle is going to be used in the wet, put an extra layer of oil or Vaseline on the external metal parts.
2) You do not need to clean the bore of a rimfire unless the groups start opening up or you are using particularly bad ammo (corrosive primers). If you do need to clean the bore of lead residue, I would recommend a pull through rather than a cleaning rod. Always pull from breech to muzzle and ensure that the pull through or rod does not scrape against the inside of the muzzle.
When cleaning a dirty bore, my first patch is always a wet one and I dip it in surgical spirit in the absence of a bore solvent. After a few 'wet' passes, I will try a 'dry' pass and if it come out clean, I will pass another couple of dry patches and then pass an oiled patch through the bore assuming the rifle is not going to be used for the remainder of the day. Please ensure that you run a dry patch through the bore before you commence shooting.
To ensure that any liquid that is squeezed at the breech does not travel further back into the receiver I hold the rifle so that the loading port is facing the ground and that the barrel is at an angle to the ground with the muzzle pointing towards the ground.
Wipe off any liquid that remains behind in the receiver.
3) Do keep the bolt face clean but do not keep it oiled. If you do put oil on it, make sure you use a dry cloth to remove it. Ditto for the extractor claws - the extractor arms may be oiled. The rest of the bolt should first be cleaned with a clean dry cloth and then covered with a thin film of oil that has been put on a clean bit of cloth. I never spray or apply oil directly on any of the metal parts barring the scenario described in point # 9.
4) Next dry clean the inside of the receiver and magazine well and then using the oily cloth put a light film of oil on the internal walls. Each of the bolt rails could do with a drop of oil. Put a drop on each rail at one end and then tilt the rifle so that the oil slides along the rail. Wipe off any excess oil.
5) Clean out any gunk in the extractor claw recesses/housing with a toothpick. Failure to do this and not keeping the bolt face clean will result in headspace problems causing misfires. You could put a drop of oil in each recess but do clean it out with a dry cloth leaving only the faintest of smears.
6) Wipe the barrel and muzzle face with a clean dry cloth, followed by a clean oily cloth. Many people ignore the crown. Please do not do this because if the crown rusts, the accuracy will subsequently go to pot and the barrel will need re-crowning.
7) Dry clean and then wipe down with an oily cloth any other metal parts such as the trigger blade, trigger guard, stock screw heads, accessory rail, sling swivel, iron sight, scope mount bolts, etc.
I prefer to store my rifle uncocked. I hold the bolt handle with the oily cloth, then keeping the trigger depressed I shut the bolt and release the trigger blade. One the metal bits have been oiled only old the rifle by the sling, stock or with an oily cloth on the barrel.
9) In case the rifle gets rained on or falls in a puddle of water. I would strip it entirely as soon as possible, dry each part and lube it appropriately before assembling the rifle again. If you do not know how to strip the rifle, at least remove stock from action and blast the metal bits with a water displacer such as WD40.
10) Whilst oiling the metal bits try and ensure that the oil does not touch the wooden stock as wood absorbs oil and it will gradually turn darker. This is not a problem with lacquered stocks but bear in mind that the inletting will most probably not have a lacquer final finish. So be careful.
11) I have seen many people store their guns in cases. Try and avoid this if possible and store in a relatively more open space such as a gun cabinet. If you do store in a gun case leave about three inches or so of the zip open. Never place a cold or wet gun in a case.
If the metal is cold, let the gun stand until the surface temperature is about the same as that within the bag or room. If you fail to do this condensation will form on the cold metal surface and result in rust. A wet gun must be dried and lubed before being stored. If possible do not bring a cold gun into a warm room.
Also, never place a gun in a gun case that has even a bit of moisture since that is another recipe for disaster. Let the guncase dry for atleast 24 hours under a fan before putting the rifle back.
12) The ideal way to store a gun is on it’s side or with the muzzle facing down. This prevents the oil in the bore finding it’s way onto the bolt face. You could use a Coke bottle cap or similar to rest the muzzle on. Having said that, I store my guns with the muzzle facing up but do follow the rest of the above mentioned points religiously.
13) Rub the stock down with a clean dry cloth.
I hope this has been of help to some of you and now you know why the phrase 'Parsi maintained' carries such weight.
Mack The Knife
1) If the rifle is not going to be used in a wet or very humid area, wipe off the oil from the metal surfaces with a clean rag since dust tends to cling to oil. Conversely, if the rifle is going to be used in the wet, put an extra layer of oil or Vaseline on the external metal parts.
2) You do not need to clean the bore of a rimfire unless the groups start opening up or you are using particularly bad ammo (corrosive primers). If you do need to clean the bore of lead residue, I would recommend a pull through rather than a cleaning rod. Always pull from breech to muzzle and ensure that the pull through or rod does not scrape against the inside of the muzzle.
When cleaning a dirty bore, my first patch is always a wet one and I dip it in surgical spirit in the absence of a bore solvent. After a few 'wet' passes, I will try a 'dry' pass and if it come out clean, I will pass another couple of dry patches and then pass an oiled patch through the bore assuming the rifle is not going to be used for the remainder of the day. Please ensure that you run a dry patch through the bore before you commence shooting.
To ensure that any liquid that is squeezed at the breech does not travel further back into the receiver I hold the rifle so that the loading port is facing the ground and that the barrel is at an angle to the ground with the muzzle pointing towards the ground.
Wipe off any liquid that remains behind in the receiver.
3) Do keep the bolt face clean but do not keep it oiled. If you do put oil on it, make sure you use a dry cloth to remove it. Ditto for the extractor claws - the extractor arms may be oiled. The rest of the bolt should first be cleaned with a clean dry cloth and then covered with a thin film of oil that has been put on a clean bit of cloth. I never spray or apply oil directly on any of the metal parts barring the scenario described in point # 9.
4) Next dry clean the inside of the receiver and magazine well and then using the oily cloth put a light film of oil on the internal walls. Each of the bolt rails could do with a drop of oil. Put a drop on each rail at one end and then tilt the rifle so that the oil slides along the rail. Wipe off any excess oil.
5) Clean out any gunk in the extractor claw recesses/housing with a toothpick. Failure to do this and not keeping the bolt face clean will result in headspace problems causing misfires. You could put a drop of oil in each recess but do clean it out with a dry cloth leaving only the faintest of smears.
6) Wipe the barrel and muzzle face with a clean dry cloth, followed by a clean oily cloth. Many people ignore the crown. Please do not do this because if the crown rusts, the accuracy will subsequently go to pot and the barrel will need re-crowning.
7) Dry clean and then wipe down with an oily cloth any other metal parts such as the trigger blade, trigger guard, stock screw heads, accessory rail, sling swivel, iron sight, scope mount bolts, etc.
I prefer to store my rifle uncocked. I hold the bolt handle with the oily cloth, then keeping the trigger depressed I shut the bolt and release the trigger blade. One the metal bits have been oiled only old the rifle by the sling, stock or with an oily cloth on the barrel.9) In case the rifle gets rained on or falls in a puddle of water. I would strip it entirely as soon as possible, dry each part and lube it appropriately before assembling the rifle again. If you do not know how to strip the rifle, at least remove stock from action and blast the metal bits with a water displacer such as WD40.
10) Whilst oiling the metal bits try and ensure that the oil does not touch the wooden stock as wood absorbs oil and it will gradually turn darker. This is not a problem with lacquered stocks but bear in mind that the inletting will most probably not have a lacquer final finish. So be careful.
11) I have seen many people store their guns in cases. Try and avoid this if possible and store in a relatively more open space such as a gun cabinet. If you do store in a gun case leave about three inches or so of the zip open. Never place a cold or wet gun in a case.
If the metal is cold, let the gun stand until the surface temperature is about the same as that within the bag or room. If you fail to do this condensation will form on the cold metal surface and result in rust. A wet gun must be dried and lubed before being stored. If possible do not bring a cold gun into a warm room.
Also, never place a gun in a gun case that has even a bit of moisture since that is another recipe for disaster. Let the guncase dry for atleast 24 hours under a fan before putting the rifle back.
12) The ideal way to store a gun is on it’s side or with the muzzle facing down. This prevents the oil in the bore finding it’s way onto the bolt face. You could use a Coke bottle cap or similar to rest the muzzle on. Having said that, I store my guns with the muzzle facing up but do follow the rest of the above mentioned points religiously.
13) Rub the stock down with a clean dry cloth.
I hope this has been of help to some of you and now you know why the phrase 'Parsi maintained' carries such weight.
Mack The Knife