penpusher";p="7278 wrote:Mack The Knife's description of how his father-in-law's shotgun got spoiled is something all too familiar in India.The high humidity,especially during the monsoons and in the costal areas along with the high temperature variations coupled with the dust ,makes taking care of guns a problem.
So if a member/s would describe the proper procedure that they use for cleaning after firing:-
i) a shotgun-break barrel,pump action and semi-auto
ii)Rifle
iii)Pistol
iv) Revolver-top break and side opening
Also how to store a gun keeping in mind the climatic conditions that you would encounter on the sub-continent.The gun cleaning supplies in India are confined to machine oil/gun oil,WD40,hot water, bronze brushes,nylon brushes and jags and nothing else.
penpusher
If I may, allow me to add my four annas:
Here are some useful DIY solutions and formulas for gun care that I'd like to share most of which is from my copy J.V.Howe's The Modern Gunsmith Vol-1&2, I claim no originality to the formulas:
Given that at least the bare minimum- Gun oil, is readily available in varying qualities in our great nation, I'll leave out home made gun oil.
Gun Grease - Most folks use automobile grease which behaves horribly over time. Assuming you don't have access to dedicated gun grease, try this:
1 part anhydrous lanolin
1 part pure white vaseline (this is readily available- the stuff you apply on your lips)
As a side note-Lanolin in its natural state also serves to lubricate and make outdoor clothing water proof. The wool in all garments eventually loses this oil, but an application of lanolin will prevent the fobers of the woold from becoming dry. After an application it is surprising how waterproof old wool clothing becomes.
Powder Solvent - This is a must use for corrosive and 'dirty' ammo, which could ruin your bore pretty quick. Even clean ammo usage will require an ocassional powder solvent wipe. The following formula is very good for dissolving powder residue:
100cc. best grade turpentine
100cc. pure Sperm oil
100cc. Acetone
Sperm oil is considered the finest oil around,but dont ask me how you can get hold of it because since it's exracted from Sperm whales(!), I doubt you'd get it anywhere nowdays. I'll try to see if there is an easily available substitute.
After ths mix is made put it in a glass receptable with a stopper so that the acetone doesn't evaporate.
Metal Fouling Solution- Metal fouling interferes with accuraccy and if left long enough, rus till develop under these patches thus ruining the barrel. The metal fouling solution is compounded as flollows:
220gr. Ammonium persulfate
100gr. Ammonium carbonate
90cc. Ammonia (26 to 28%)
60cc. Distilled water
The first two ingredients should be powdered together in a small mortat and then mixed with the last two in a bottle with a rubber cork. Secure bottle large enough so that when you pour in the two latter ingredients it will only be one-half or two thirds full, for the solution generates a powerful gas which may blow the cork out or burst the bottle. keep it in a cool place when not in use.
This amount of solution will keep for two and three weeks; after that, it generally loses its original strength. So its better to mix new as your requirements demand. Always keep the bottle tightly corked and leave it uncorked only for a few seconds when pouring out the required amount.To determine the presence of metal fouling in the rifle bore, first clean it with powder solvent and the thoroughly clean and dry the bore using clean patches. Hold up the bore to good light and examine from both ends. The presence of metal can be detected in different forms such as long streaks, small flaky spots , or even lumps and smears adhereing to the lands and groves.
When ready to use the solution, carefully clean the bore of all oil and grease. Then insert a rubber cork the chamber, and a small piece of rubber hose in into the muzzle of the rifle until the bore is full and the liquid flush with the end of the barrel, being careful not to spill any on the outside of the rifle
.(if this should happen, wipe it dry at once with a cloth well moistened with gun oil)
Let the solution remain in the bore between 20-30mins but never over half an hour under any circumstances.
When first poured into the bore, the liquid is as colorless as water, then little bubbles begin to appear as it begins to dissolve the alloy(which is mostly copper) deposited by the bullet jackets. It generally completes its work in 15 minutes, but the full thirty mins will remove every trace of fouling.
At the end of this process, reverse the barrel and pour out. Keeping the barrel muzzle down, insert a cleaning rod to remove the chamber cork. This is important to prevent the solution from coming into contact with the chamber since this causes rapid rusting.
From the chamber end, run a clean dry patch to remove any trace of the solution left in the bore. Run some more patches to ensure complete removal. If the solution is allowed to evaporate and dry on steel, it will cause very rapid rusting. One way to ensure total removal is the hot water treatment. Make sure you dry up with clean patches and finally run through with a coat of gun oil (Not in excess!)
For stubborn fouling, run a clean bronze bristle(Oil and grease free) several times and apply fresh solution. Very stubborn fouling may require several repeats of this process.
Do be aware that the solution will remove any stock finish so do not spill. Never pour solution into a barrel thats still warm after firing- such an application may completely ruin the barrel in a few seconds- always let the barrel cool first.
Hope this dull monologue will be of some help to the more die hard DIY folks.
Well like me, I can guess there are many DIY folks around who'd like to get their hands dirty nevertheless. Its just that irresistable old world charm about making do without all that fancy(Effective nonetheless)modern goop. It's so very satisfying.
