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NEED HELP WITH DIANA 35 Old Classic

Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 11:26 pm
by Christopher Rodrick
Hi All,

I have just got a Diana 35 (.22) AirRifle. West Germany made, Not sure of the year of manufacture. Would appreciate if you could help me to get the Rifle Zeroed. As I have tried zeroing the rifle however, have reached no where :evil:

Would appreicate if anyone can help me in getting the rifle Zeroed.

Thanks,

Chris

Re: NEED HELP WITH DIANA 35 Old Classic

Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:21 am
by striker
Chris
The open iron sight behave unique for each person because of the cheek difference .The zeroing and accuracy depends on shooters position,pellet ,and the gun.....

Sight Adjustment

Adjusting the Rear Sight

If you want the pellet to go:

Up Raise the sight
Down Lower the sight
Right Move to the Right
Left Move to the Left



cheers
sankar

Re: NEED HELP WITH DIANA 35 Old Classic

Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:48 am
by TenX
Christopher Rodrick wrote:Hi All,

I have just got a Diana 35 (.22) AirRifle. West Germany made, Not sure of the year of manufacture. Would appreciate if you could help me to get the Rifle Zeroed. As I have tried zeroing the rifle however, have reached no where :evil:

Would appreicate if anyone can help me in getting the rifle Zeroed.

Thanks,

Chris
We had an earlier post discussing sighting techniques. It was part of the Knowledge Base that is erased in this new version of IFG. For your and everyone's benefit, I am quoting the same below. Enjoy :) ... and hope it helps... (Dont mind if some sentences are out of context, but there is a bit too much of Vijay Mallya in me to make any edits ;) )

About sight adjustment in Open Sight
Data:
Rear sight is the one that sits with the 'V' closer to the shooters eye; Fore-sight is the one that sits with the '|' on the tip of the barrel; No adjustments can be made generally for the fore-sight, unless there is a huge variation and the foresight needs to be filed.

Understanding the Theory:
There are two planes of adjusting the rifle (or pistol) sights. I shall try to be as descriptive without images.
The first is the vertical alignment (top-bottom line) which is controlled by the main (big) round knob directly on top of the center of the rear sight. By moving this clock-wise, the rear sight goes down, which in turn makes the pellet shoot lower. By moving this in an anti-clockwise direction, the rear sight moves up, which in turn makes the shooter aim with the fore-sight higher to adjust to the change in trajectory path, and the pellet shoots higher. The rear sight vertical adjustment knob has numbers and can be checked with the number of 'clicks' that one can feel while adjusting the same.
The second adjustment, which is the Horizontal adjustment (left-Right line) is got about by the side knobs of the rear sight. Some rear sights may have two knobs, one on either side, but the IHP has one to the right of the rear sight. You may need a screw-driver to make adjustments for this. There are no clicks provided in the IHP too. Moving the knob in a clock-wise direction, will in turn move the rear end of the rear sight to the LEFT. This will make the shooter aim a little to the left resulting in pellets going more to the left, and vice-versa (Anti-clockwise will result in pellets going to the right)

Adjusting the rear sight aperture:
Apart from this, some IHP guns have a small adjustment to change the rear sight view from 'V' to 'U' to 'v' or 'Џ'. To make this adjustment, slightly press the small spring based protrusion directly behind the 'V' and turn the small plate that projects out on the rear of the rear sight. This is a little hard to explain without a diagram, but is a small adjustment which a few seconds of curiosity and learning will make one perfect.

That is the basic theory part of the application.

Putting theory into Practice:
Now to put them into practical use, what a shooter should be advised is to shoot atleast 3 shoots on the target, without scoring. This gives a general direction of where the grouping is. Based on this, required corrections are to be made with a few clicks at a time, and another sighting of about three shots be made before making more sight changes. Once again the general changed grouping should be noted and required adequate clicks made in the rear sight.
> If the shots go to 12 O'clock, move vertical adjustment clockwise.
> If the shots go to 6 O'clock, move vertical adjustment anti-clockwise.
> If the shots go to 3 O'clock, move horizontal adjustment clockwise.
> If the shots go to 9 O'clock, move horizontal adjustment anti-clockwise.
> For shots going to other angles, a combination of the horizontal and vertical adjustment is required. First make changes in the horizontal adjustment and get the shots in the line of 12 O'clock and 6 O'clock. Now make required vertical adjustments to score a medal winning match

Note:
1. For some shooters, there will be a big change from 'benching' the gun, and from holding it. This is based on the shooters stance and grip.
2. Some rifles may shoot drrastically to the bottom, and the least setting of the rear-sight may not be helpful. For such situations, one will have to slightly file the fore sight, so that the shots come closer to the center. This adjustment has no CTRL-Z to it!!!
3. It is good for shooters to note the numerical changes of the main rear sight adjustment (vertical) between different distances. That way, the shooter can quickly make rear sight vertical changes by approximating the distance of the target, and get good accuracy from the first shot itself. (For example, if '3' is read for a 10 m target, and '9' is required for 20m, this can be memorized/recorded for quick adaptation.). This may not be same across different rifles.

I guess stance and hold is pretty important to guage the grouping. My IHP did not do well until I crossed the 300-400 mark, after which, I started improving on the grouping.
I check on the grouping of all my airguns in the following way:
1. Fixed target, at height of the how I place/hold the gun.
2. Preferably 'rest' the front of the rifle on a padding (I use hardened foam).
3. Hold the gun at the same place for all teh shots, with the same hold and pressure. (Same with cheek rest and pressure on butt). I prefer to sit down on a chair, and have the gun rest on a steady table.
4. Use only pellets that fit in correctly (guaged to as well as the user can judge). I dont use the pellet if it is very smooth or very tight fit.
5. Repeat the H.A.T (Holding, Aiming, Trigger Operation) methood exactly (or close) for every shot.
6. Check groupings for 5 and 10 shots, two or three times.
The .177 IHP improved grouping in about 300-400 shots.
The .177 IHP Pistol came in a used condition. So no comments on this.
The .177 HW77K has just about crossed around 300 shots, and am yet to find substancial difference, but anyday beats the IHP (of course :) )
What I aim to find out is:
1. Variation (for the better) of grouping.
2. Variation of recoil - especially the position of the aim after the shot has been fired.
3. Trigger operation.

It would be hard to simulate the exact strategy for all guns you try, but keep close in ensuring that human body inconsistencies (change in grip, hold, aim, cheek pressure, stance etc) dont reflect on the grouping, which may hamper your judgement.

Re: NEED HELP WITH DIANA 35 Old Classic

Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 11:28 pm
by Christopher Rodrick
Thanks Guys,

Actually the problem lied somewhere else. Both the side screws were loose and tends to get loose after around 20 to 30 shots so it sprayed the bullets instead of any particular direction. Once the screws are tight the grouping was 1/3" at around 7 mts standing position. Need to get a permanent solution with the screws. Also have noticed that the screws threading are more or less gone so would first try out with new screws from some hardware shop if that works well and fine else would try another alternative.

Love this site as everyone is very helpful.

Chris

Re: NEED HELP WITH DIANA 35 Old Classic

Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 11:49 pm
by ronish
chris, apply locktite on loctite the screws , it would help .

Re: NEED HELP WITH DIANA 35 Old Classic

Posted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 10:59 am
by mundaire
ronish wrote:chris, apply locktite on loctite the screws , it would help .
In stead of the "normal" super glue loctite that you usually see on the shelves, for this application you should use the "removable threadlock" (blue) loctite.

Cheers!
Abhijeet

Re: NEED HELP WITH DIANA 35 Old Classic

Posted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 12:26 pm
by OverUnderPump
You can also try 'Thread Seal' tape if you have any issues procuring the removable variety of Loctite.
Removal is pretty straight forward for both Loctite and Thread seals in case of stubborn leftovers on the bolt/screw. Heating the bolt/screw and an acetone dip (after cooling down) has worked for me.

EDIT: In case of bolts/screws which are stuck and cant be put over a direct heat source,a soldering iron can be used.

regards
8)
OUP

Re: NEED HELP WITH DIANA 35 Old Classic

Posted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 1:12 pm
by snIPer
Chris,
First all replace the screws with ones from a gunsmith and not a local hardware shop, the ones from the gunsmith are usually tempered and will last longer compared to the local ones they dont cost much when compared.

secondly once that is done - use locklite as suggested by others.

third - if it is dieseling - use a little heavier pellets for the initial shots and then see if it settles down.

later check the grouping - irrespective of where they shoot when you aim at a point they should group, once that is achieved you can start zeroing.

Check the breech seal and see if it needs replacement.

Last of all and the most important . TRY DIFFERENT PELLETS. - using a bench rest and not standing.
Eg - 10 shots of each.

Master Shot - Round head
Master Shot - Flat head
Master shot - Pointed
Master Shot - Export etc etc.

Gsmith - or any other.

im not sure if you can locate 5.5 or 5.6 . try both.
i can give you a few of round head & pointed of one master shot if you want to try and also a few of gsmiths round head too.
But before you do - pls replace and lock the screws.
/S/