SAVAGE 1907 Pistol

[drjones]

Hi Guys,
Iam new to this club, This is my first post but I have been going through the site for quite sometime. This is a fantastic site and very informative.
I own a SAVAGE 1907 / 0.32 pistol. I tries bluing it through gunsmiths in Chennai and tried myself with bluing kits. The bluing is never complete and is in patches. The armoury guys couldn't do it. I thought the cleaning was not proper, maybe left some grease behind and tried a lot but nothing works. It would be helpful if I get some useful tips.
Then the ejection is not proper if I load more than 5 cartriges. Its the original spring. Can I get a new spring for it? Need guidance.
Take care/ safe shooting/ CYA.
Dr.Jones

[dev]

Normally an armoury does a seven day hot blue that should work.
While using cold blue kits preparing the metal is very important. Remove all grease and dirt with a metal cleaner. You can also heat the metal by pouring hot water over it. Then dry it and apply the blueing fluid. I normally work it in with a soft paper towel till I see the colour that I want. Then soak it in cold water. Dry and remove the excess with 000steel wool. Oil lightly and see if the colour matches what you want. If need be repeat the process. Be patient and enjoy the time spent.

Dev

[Shamsher]

Dear Dr Jones
Welcome to the club,
About your .32 savage - I had a Savage .32 hammerless till recently, is yours a hammerless too?
I would advise DO NOT OPEN OR TAMPER with the original magazine.
You will never get the same fit again.

Mine had similar complications.
I explain it as below
firstly, this is not an ejection problem.
The problem is with the reloading part where the next round does not leave the magazine to go into the chamber
90% of the fault lies in the IOF ammo.
The balance 10% is the magazine fault.
The inside walls of the magazine are probably pitted with rust & grit, affecting the slide movement
You need to spray WD-40 generously on & inside the magzine. Let it remain overnite
Get a .22 cal brass brush - fix it to the hand drill - spray wd-40 again - push the magzine slide as far down as possible using a pen, then gently buff the inside walls.
Keep spraying wd 40 at intervels while massaging.
once done wash with kerosine / diesel & wipe dry, u could use ear buds to wipe corners and unaccessable areas
This is the best way to clean the insides of the magazine without opening the magazine.

HOW TO SELECT THE AMMO.
carry a eley or S&B round with you.
And a 6" steel scale

Line up 10 round of the IOF ammo, prefebaly on float glass or any other uniform surface
place the Imported ammo in the centre- so we have 5 IOF on either side of the Imported ammo, all in a line
Place the steel scale sideways on top of these.
Dont be surprised to see the inconsistant length of the IOF ammo.
Some would be shorter than the Imported ones while a majority would be taller.
Select the ones shorter or sized same as the imported one.
These will never jam in the magazine.

Believe me, this way you will have no problem with the reloading.

The above applies to many other pistols with similar problems

Wishing you all the best
Shamsher

[TenX]

"Experience is the best teacher"
Samsher, thats very useful info.

[diskaon]

Shamsher .. intense!!!

[drjones]

Hi Dev,
Thanks for the tip, can I use WD40 as a metal cleaner? Or you recomend 100% alcohol? While pouring the hot water , is it OK for the plastic grips to stay in place or should it be removed? Cause Iam worried as one of them is already cracked. Is it possible to get a replica at least?

Shamsher, You enlightened me pal, I never thought about the pits inside the magazine and about the cartriges, I knew imported ones are good, but , never thought about that we could compare that with the IOF's size when buying, excellent point pal, I think Iam going to get the life out off my armoury man selecting that way.CYA
Dr.Jones

[Shamsher]

Dear Doctor Jones
You could perfom the 'magazine' surgery yourself.
Now for the acene treatment & the plastic surgery to make your pistol new.

Clean the pistol by spraying the wd-40 / zorrik inside out of the pistol let it remain for at least 12 hours.
Then dip it in MT oil (use the dry cleaning one - it smalls less) about a litre should be enough to submerge it a small pan
let it wash out the wd-40 & the grit from inside. you could also swirl the liquid to make it work effectively
alternately using a cup you should also pour MT oil through the barrel & the magazine slot to wash the insides.
Pulling the slide a few time & firing blank a couple of times will do good for the cleaning.
Once done, Shake the pistol dry.
wipe with cloth inside out & wash hands to rid the oil effect.
Take another steel pan with local thinner (INR 45 / Ltr)- local thinner will not eat into the plastic guards, you can try with a drop of thinner on the plastic.

Dip the pistol in the thinner pan follow the same rules as above. Thinner will null the effects of WD-40 & MT oil + it will also clean the stubborn grit.

Wipe clean. not to forget your hands, clean em too !

Arrange the following waters
DM water for final washing as it does not leave stains
Distilled water in case DM water is not avaliable.

RO or Bisleri water fro washing
First using pril liquid wash with RO or bisleri water use a tooth brush to reach edges & insides. - all lubricition will be washed out.
wash throughly with the same water.

Wipe dry with fresh cotton cloth.

Wash again ONLY using the DM water no soaps etc.

Wipe dry with a clean fresh cotton cloth

Place the pistol in front of the heat convictor for 5 to 8 mts.

Then massage vigrously using a fresh cotton cloth or a cotton swab, till u get the metal to shine

Your pistol is now totally degreased & ready to be blued.

In you have a Brichwood perma blue, it's a decent one, good, else you could use the "Artic BK155" Metal oxidizer costs about INR 230/ a litre and works faster & better than the foriegn blues.

pour about 20 ml in a plastic or glass cup

make a cotton swab about 2" square - wet it _ massage the barrel area first - remember you have to apply pressure & keep changing the side of the swab after every few strokes. the metal colour will change from dark brown to black - blue
Discard the swab once it gets black. Rub vigorusly with cotton cloth to maintain the shine
Apply wet swab again - & rub as mentioned above

after every 2 wet-rubs you will have to wash the pistol in DM water - Water helps in the oxidizing,

wipe dry & wet rub again

Keep repeating the proccess till u get the desired finish.
& finally wash with DM water clean & apply oil & let the blueing set for about a week for best results.

Hope you enjoy this too.
Shamsher

[TenX]

"Blue Sticky"

[Risala]

Hi Dev,

While pouring the hot water , is it OK for the plastic grips to stay in place or should it be removed? Cause Iam worried as one of them is already cracked. Is it possible to get a replica at least?

Dr.Jones

Advisable to remove them,for originals the US would be the best bet,try Numrich,www.marstar.ca,or Lees Gun Parts in Irving,Texas,the first two will ship to India,ol man Lee wont outside the US,but he might just have them (I picked up a pair for my Beretta).The other option would be to get wodden ones made,dont know about down South,but in these parts there are smiths who do an amazing job.
HTH

[Sakobav]

Great narrative Shamsher and is this the pistol

http://vintagepistols.com/1907/index.html

Best

[Shamsher]

Yes that is the one I had, very easy to handle & the sights line up very fast

[mundaire]

IIRC this same model was used in "Road to Perdition" by the Mafia assassin (Jude Law) while hunting down Tom Hanks and his son... Tom Hanks of course, being the hero and all, used a Colt 1911

Cheers!
Abhijeet

[drjones]

Hi Shamsher,
Thanks for the eloborate procedure details, I already got the feeling of blueing my gun just by reading the details . Thanks, a few more clarification, What is MT oil, DM water and where can I get Artic BK 155?
Dr.Jones

[Shamsher]

Hi doc.
a) De-mineral water is called DM water, this water never leaves any stains after washing. costs about 10 per litre. Buy this at the scientific goods shop.

b) MT oil is the Mineral Turpentine oil or "taarpeen ka tael" what the painters use. but go for the softer one which smells less & is used by the dry cleaners.
You can buy this at any paint shop.

SS

c) Artic chemcode BK155 You could buy at any shop which sells solvents & electrodes for nickle & other plating chemicals

[cottage cheese]

Hey try this e-book on the Savage 1907- its free and contains very detailed technical info:

http://www.geocities.com/hl-editions/ebook1.htm

after you download, follow the instructions to get your password.

The rest of the ebooks are pay for type: I've got all- very useful for some one in my profession.

You'll find the rest of the books listed here:

http://users.skynet.be/HL-Editions/