penpusher, that`s a whole raft of questions.......and the first answer is that there is NO actual formula for determining the LOP. There are `rules of thumb` ( `rules of forearm` more accurately ) but these are only guidelines as each individual is different. As an instance of that I can quote my own case as, since putting on a load of weight, my shoulders are heftier and I require a LOP about half an inch shorter than I used to.
The usual `rule of thumb` quoted for determining the LOP is the distance between the inside of the elbow where the forearm is bent ( the crease line ) and the line across the top joint on your fore-finger. Works pretty well for some people but can be as much as +/- an inch and a half out for others.
Before I go any further I should explain that the `LOP` ( `Length Of Pull` ) is the distance between the centre of the trigger ( the centre of the rear trigger on a double trigger gun ) and the centre of the butt/butt plate/butt pad.
On most standard modern guns this is around 14" - 14 1/2".
Note also that the amount and thickness of clothing worn will also have an effect upon the optimum LOP.
The actual optimum LOP is that which allows you to mount the gun correctly and cleanly without snagging clothing.
Gunfit is always more critical for a discipline in which the gun is not pre-mounted than it is for a pre-mounted discpline.
In general terms, the LOP is the least critical dimension in gunfit.
The MOST critical are drop at comb and the drop at heel.
The major, large volume gunmakers tend to say that the `standard` dimensions of a 14 1/2" LOP, 1 1/2" - 1 5/8" drop at comb, 2 1/2" drop at heel are `optimum` for 95% of shooters. Utter crap ! I have only one one modern gun that fit me `straight out of the box - and it doesn`t correspond with any of those three dimensions. The top bespoke gunmakers, British and Italian, don`t quote - or build - a gun with `standard` dimensions as they build their stocks to suit the individual buyers requirements.
The only way that a gun can be fitted correctly is with the use of a pattern plate.
Please read this piece by Peter Blakely, one of the best gunfitters in the UK:
http://www.peteblakeley.com/custom.htm
One aspect of gunfitting that you have completely ignored is the matter of `cast` - the amount that the stock is offset to one side or the other in order that you can look straight down the rib with your master eye without unnaturally canting your head. Again the actual amount required varies from person to person.......and a gun cast for a right hander is obviously cast the wrong way for a left hander. Volume produced guns are designed for right handers.
As regards altering a stock there are various methods that can be used: The best however is that used by gunfitters in which the stock is bent up or down to adjust the drop at comb and heel and from side to side to adjust the cast. A gunfitter can also adjust the `cant`, the amount by which the stock is twisted to allow for personal body shape. Some people require the heel bent out, some in.
Bending a stock always involves some risk and no gunfitter will guarantee that a stock will not split or snap during bending. Happilly such major damage occurs only rarely. I`ve snapped only one stock and that was a gun with a `cross-over`stock with an extreme amount of cast designed to allow a right-handed shooter ( shooting off the right shoulder ) to shoot with his left eye. It was hardly surprising that the stock snapped as it would have been made with that very large amount of cast rather than bent to shape - it was a gun that I bought in and I expected the stock to break but I figured it was a risk worth taking.
Bending a stock is NOT something that should be attempted by the amateur.
Adjustable combs can be fitted to a gun. The best is the Alan Rhone, the fitting of which is now carried out by Roy Wedlake :
http://www.krieghoff.co.uk/12.html
Trap guns that are converted to sporters have the comb cut down and reshaped. A gun that requires a higher comb can have a wooden fillet added. There are inexpensive pads that can be fitted ( such as the `Kick-eeze` - around £12 ) but these also effect the cast. There is a simple rubber comb raiser which can be stuck to the top of the comb and ground down to suit if required:
( Scroll down to view )
http://www.attacc.com/acatalog/Attlebor ... ories.html
Shortening a stock puts the balance point further forward. If the balance is uncomfortably altered - it can make a gun too lively - lead can be added to the fore-end by drilling holes in the underside of the forward part of the fore-end and filling them wth lead. If a stock is lengthened the balance point moves towards the back of the gun slowing and steadying the gun. This is not necessarily a bad thing, especially with a Trap gun or a short barrelled game gun. if the balance has to be altered holes can be drilled in the butt ( under the butt plate or pad ) and lead plugs inserted. Many guns have a convenient pair of holes already in situ, one either side of the centre point in the vertical axis.
Adjustable butt plates - including recoil reducing systems - are available from various manufacturers :
See :
https://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store ... BUTT+PLATE
and also :
http://graco-corp.com/adjustable-butt-p ... egoryId=25
Graco also supply adjustable comb systems ( amongst other things. )
The advantage of an adjustable butt pad is that other dimensions stock dimensions can be altered. The disadvantage is that they add up to 1 1/2 lbs in weight ( more for a recoil reducing system ) which dramatically alters the point of balance.
The easiest way to lengthen a stock is to fit a spacer of the required size between the butt and plate/pad......or simply to add a butt pad if one isn`t already fitted - with a spacer if necessary.
The ideal point of balance for most people is just forward of the hinge pin - within about an inch or so.
Hope this helps.