Chemical needed for cold bluing & Hot bluing
-
- Fresh on the boat
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2013 12:06 am
Chemical needed for cold bluing & Hot bluing
Hi ,
I am having the 30-06 Sporting Rifle and the barrel is full of rust . So i have decided to do browning of my gun myself . Can you all suggest me the procedure for it and also the cold Bluing Process .
Thanking You.
I am having the 30-06 Sporting Rifle and the barrel is full of rust . So i have decided to do browning of my gun myself . Can you all suggest me the procedure for it and also the cold Bluing Process .
Thanking You.
- Safarigent
- Shooting true
- Posts: 991
- Joined: Thu Feb 17, 2011 2:52 pm
- Location: Delhi
Re: Chemical needed for cold bluing & Hot bluing
You need to take care of it.
Bluing wont solve the problem of rusting.
Bluing is only a mild deterrent to rusting.
Proper care is what is of the utmost importance.
Perhaps seniors can chip in with better advice
Also use this website
Www.lmgtfy.com on the process of cold bluing etc
Bluing wont solve the problem of rusting.
Bluing is only a mild deterrent to rusting.
Proper care is what is of the utmost importance.
Perhaps seniors can chip in with better advice
Also use this website
Www.lmgtfy.com on the process of cold bluing etc
To Excellence through Diligence.
- timmy
- Old Timer
- Posts: 3027
- Joined: Mon Dec 08, 2008 7:03 am
- Location: home on the range
Re: Chemical needed for cold bluing & Hot bluing
Mr Mehta is right: before you should be thinking of bluing, you need to deal with the rust. Also, there are a numb of bluing processes. Hot or caustic bluing requires some equipment and will not be cost effective for or use - you would be better off taking the gun to a gunsmith.
Cold bluing as slot in stores is not a very durable finish - it is a lot less durable than real bluing and is generally used for small touch ups.this is more like a coating than real bluing, which, in itself, is actually a form of rust. These cold blue products actually deposit a layer, which IIRC is copper sulphate or something like tht. It is easily worn off.
Brownell's sells a product called oxpho-blu, and is actually Ann to Parkerizing. It is based on a phosphate type process of some kind.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... d1072.aspx
I have not used the oxpho blue process --yet. I am going to use it to finish my RFI 2A, though.
It is late and I'm sorry, or I would have researched this better for you. Maybe another member can do a better job. Perhaps this video will help you:
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn/lea ... ?lid=11050
Edited to add: if the rust is not severe, I have always found automatic transmission fluid to be very helpful in deal with rust, both as a preventative and a cure. But it will not work miracles.
Cold bluing as slot in stores is not a very durable finish - it is a lot less durable than real bluing and is generally used for small touch ups.this is more like a coating than real bluing, which, in itself, is actually a form of rust. These cold blue products actually deposit a layer, which IIRC is copper sulphate or something like tht. It is easily worn off.
Brownell's sells a product called oxpho-blu, and is actually Ann to Parkerizing. It is based on a phosphate type process of some kind.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... d1072.aspx
I have not used the oxpho blue process --yet. I am going to use it to finish my RFI 2A, though.
It is late and I'm sorry, or I would have researched this better for you. Maybe another member can do a better job. Perhaps this video will help you:
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn/lea ... ?lid=11050
Edited to add: if the rust is not severe, I have always found automatic transmission fluid to be very helpful in deal with rust, both as a preventative and a cure. But it will not work miracles.
“Fanaticism consists of redoubling your efforts when you have forgotten your aim.”
saying in the British Royal Navy
saying in the British Royal Navy
-
- Veteran
- Posts: 1906
- Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2010 9:55 am
- Location: tamilnadu,india
Re: Chemical needed for cold bluing & Hot bluing
friend,best is to 'rust blue'' your barrel.cold bluing is temporary and hot bluing is messy and cumbersome.
regards
dr.jk
regards
dr.jk
- brihacharan
- Old Timer
- Posts: 3112
- Joined: Fri Jan 22, 2010 3:33 pm
- Location: mumbai
Re: Chemical needed for cold bluing & Hot bluing
Hi krock,
> First remove all rust by using WD40 or Rustolene
> Then apply denatured spirit or surgical spirit to remove all oil / grease
> Apply "Ballistol" bluing solution & rub with oil
> Ballistol Bluing solution is available in Delhi / India...
Contact - [email protected] or call 01204167639 / 01203103202 for your supply.
> BTW this is the immediate solution to restore your weapon - Remember to take care by mild oil rubs at least once a month.
Briha
> First remove all rust by using WD40 or Rustolene
> Then apply denatured spirit or surgical spirit to remove all oil / grease
> Apply "Ballistol" bluing solution & rub with oil
> Ballistol Bluing solution is available in Delhi / India...
Contact - [email protected] or call 01204167639 / 01203103202 for your supply.
> BTW this is the immediate solution to restore your weapon - Remember to take care by mild oil rubs at least once a month.
Briha
- Mark
- Veteran
- Posts: 1147
- Joined: Sat Jun 03, 2006 10:37 am
- Location: Middle USA
Re: Chemical needed for cold bluing & Hot bluing
I really like Oxpho-blue! If you are not doing a total refinish it is a really good product and quite durable for the amount of time spent in refinishing. However, I do add an extra step- Brownells also sells a blue called "Dicropan T4" which gives a much richer and darker color. So what I do is refinish first with Oxpho-Blue with several applications, and then wash with water, then wash again with rubbing alcohol, and then apply a few coats of T4 and it comes out looking quite nice and it is also a durable finish. I refinished a 22 rifle of mine this way, I'll take some pictures tomorrow and post them.timmy wrote:Mr Mehta is right: before you should be thinking of bluing, you need to deal with the rust. Also, there are a numb of bluing processes. Hot or caustic bluing requires some equipment and will not be cost effective for or use - you would be better off taking the gun to a gunsmith.
Cold bluing as slot in stores is not a very durable finish - it is a lot less durable than real bluing and is generally used for small touch ups.this is more like a coating than real bluing, which, in itself, is actually a form of rust. These cold blue products actually deposit a layer, which IIRC is copper sulphate or something like tht. It is easily worn off.
Brownell's sells a product called oxpho-blu, and is actually Ann to Parkerizing. It is based on a phosphate type process of some kind.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... d1072.aspx
I have not used the oxpho blue process --yet. I am going to use it to finish my RFI 2A, though.
It is late and I'm sorry, or I would have researched this better for you. Maybe another member can do a better job. Perhaps this video will help you:
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn/lea ... ?lid=11050
Edited to add: if the rust is not severe, I have always found automatic transmission fluid to be very helpful in deal with rust, both as a preventative and a cure. But it will not work miracles.
"What if he had no knife? In that case he would not be a good bushman so there is no need to consider the possibility." H.A. Lindsay, 1947