Indians For Guns

Anybody having blades in these steels please let me know how they are ie edge retention, ease of sharpening etc.Also, is 1060 more resistant to rust and breaking?

Skyman wrote:Anybody having blades in these steels please let me know how they are ie edge retention, ease of sharpening etc.Also, is 1060 more resistant to rust and breaking?

10 refers to carbon steel and 45 and 6o are the percentages of carbon. 0.45% and 0.60% carbon.
The more the carbon the better the edge retention and hardness (assuming both are heat treated correctly and similarly)


Here's a very good resource from the Spyderco Website

http://www.spyderco.com/edge-u-cation/index.php?item=3

http://www.spyderco.com/edge-u-cation/steel.php

1095 is used by Kabar, Becker and Esee's with a Carbon percentage of 0.95% carbon, compare this to a premium steel like CPM S30V with a Carbon percentage of 1.45% and you get the idea why these knives are so costly. Spyderco has a few sprint runs of the Military and Manix in S90V which sell for well over USD 400.

our Esdee is has an engineering degree in Metallurgy and may be able to provide an indepth explanation.

DO you have knives in 1045 and 1060? how are they to sharpen? Thanks

Here is a rather informative list:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_blade_materials

From that article:

Carbon steel is a popular choice for rough use knives. Carbon steel tends to be much tougher and much more durable, and easier to sharpen than stainless steel. They lack the chromium content of stainless steel, making them susceptible to corrosion.[6]

10xx series

The 10xx series is the most popular choice for carbon steel used in knives. They are very durable.

* 1095, a popular high-carbon steel for knives; it is more brittle than lower carbon steels such as 1055, 1060, 1070, and 1080. It has a carbon content of 0.90-1.03%[6]
* 1084, carbon content 0.80-0.93%
* 1070, carbon content 0.65-0.75%[6] Used in machetes.
* 1060, used in swords. It has a carbon content of 0.55-0.65%[6]
* 1055, used in swords and machetes often heat-treated to a spring temper to reduce breakage. It has a carbon content of 0.48-0.55%[6]


So if you have ever used a machete, understand that 1045 will be even softer than that (even though the individual heat treating has a lot to do with hardness). 1060 will make an acceptable edge if hardened and tempered properly, but also realize that a soft edge is not necessarily a bad thing, and even if it were it makes resharpening a much faster so you still have a sharp knife anyway.

About the only true way is to just experiment for yourself and discover what your own preferences are.

Oh thank you mark.I am looking for actual experience but you have helped a lot.

Skyman wrote:DO you have knives in 1045 and 1060? how are they to sharpen? Thanks

Skyman wrote:DO you have knives in 1045 and 1060? how are they to sharpen? Thanks

No I have and had in 440A,440C,8Cr13Mov,CPMS30V,Aus8,154CM.

Depends on what you use to sharpen. I would suggest please invest in a Guide and Rod System like the Lansky or the DMT, or in a Crock & Stick like the Spyderco SharpMaker. I am using the lansky since a long time and can get a hair popping edge on most knives. Slinghshot uses the Sharpmaker and is very happy with the results. Sharpening free hand on carborundum stones or convexing using mousepad and emery paper takes a lot of practice and do not attempt on a good knife if you are new to it.

P.S: The limitation of the lansky or a similar system is you will not be able to clamp a dagger like blade and it does not work well for blades larger than 5 inches due to the size of the rod that connects to the hone.

Regards
Moin.

Thanks moin.Amar suggested a sharpmaker as an investment.Will do that in a while.

Skyman wrote:Oh thank you mark.I am looking for actual experience but you have helped a lot.

Ok well I have that too, what do you want to know?

I worked as a blacksmith at an iron age living history museum and forged knives in wrought iron as well as steel so I consider myself pretty qualified to comment on the useage of both iron and carbon steel knives.

Do you want to have a knife that you can take hunting and skin 3 deer before sharpening? If so, these are not the metals you want to use for a blade. However, since hunting is banned that should not be an issue. How about fishing? You could fillet a couple dozen fish before sharpening and then it would just take a couple of swipes on a stone to get sharp again.

Also, none of the 10XX series of steels has any sort of corrosion resistance, so if you want a mirrored polish knife these are not good choices.

If you want a knife to talk about on the internet with a global assortment of people who have nothing better to do than sit in their chairs and criticize your choice of blade material for a knife, these are not good choices and they will write many pages telling you why.

If you want to have a throwing knife that you can practice with in the backyard for 30 minutes a day, the 1045 steel would be a good choice for years of hard service.

Likewise, if you want a knife to use for actual woodcraft and camping, that holds a decent enough edge to accomplish what you wish to do and still be easily sharpenable, even with a fine grained stone retrieved from a river bed, a knife forged and properly tempered from 1060 steel would be a quite satisfactory choice in my opinion.



Mark

I was looking at katana steels.I sure didn't mean you are inexperienced.

I am looking to get good with a throwing knife.Have procured one for the purpose.Any way i can identify if it is 1045 or not? Because it will bend and not break, and can he hammered flat if needed.

Thanks

The steel treatment, especially tempering, heat treating etc matter more than the actual steel type. Two knives made of same steel from different knife makers may perform different. Hence it is imperative to get it from a good maker. As an example, Ennis Entrek makes excellent knives from 440C, when most makers have moved over to newer steels...

So it depends. Depends on many factors and straight answer is not possible.

I am looking at a differentially hardened, clay tempered 1060 katana, with a real hamon.It is like 25$ more than a heat tempered 1045 which is great, but might as well go the extra distance.