Indians For Guns

few days ago One of My friend fired with his Importes Second Hand DBBL wiwth imported cartidge. Its Barrel Burst after the second shot.
1) But it happen and why?

2) What he do now.
3) He talk to the dealer, dealer says that he may fired in it a hand made high power cartidge(but its not true, he fired a imported cartidge). dealer also says that to give him a 10000 to repair the barrel. When he purchsed the gun dealer give him a full gurantee that it is the good weapon( Only 10 shot fired in this gun, dealer says like that). The bore condition of this gun are excelent it semes new. IT IS THE WILSON & SONS DBBL.
4) What my friend do now. Whetherhe pay a 10000 for repair the gun or other

5) What precaution we took when we purchase a second hand weapon from dealer( imported/indian)for bore and frame side. I am also read anywhere that dealer also cheat us with a weapon which are not in condiation to fire, which frame are weld, and other types like if u go for CZ 380 acp, they sell any other chep company weapon as a CZ. All the stemp are the CZ but its not the CZ( It told me one of the Ex Arm dealer Employ). He told me that stemp are made and it fix on the weapon. In this condition what precaution we took.

Similar experiences are already discussed in this forum. Until the import of firearms by arms license holders is opened, there is hardly any solution to this problem. One possible temporary solution till then is to buy only new weapons that are made in India. At least you will be sure that they are original.

Very sorry to hear of your friend's problem.He will be really foolish to pay Rs.10K to the dealer to repair it. Just what kind of repair can be done to a burst barrel? What other damages could have been caused to the gun?The next time, the result could be serious injury or death.No kidding! Try to get the money back.

This is what one does to check before buying a used shotgun.You can find more info here on this thread.

http://indiansforguns.com/viewtopic.php?t=458

By Grumpy.

O/U or SxS ? The first thing that you should do is count the barrels......you don`t want to be short changed !
Remove the fore-end and close the gun. Hold the gun firmly at the wrist with one hand and about half way along where the fore-end would have been with the other and firmly try to move the barrels relative to the action - up, down and sideways. There should be no movement. If there is the gun will shoot `off the face` and will need rejointing. This isn`t a hugely expensive process but needs doing properly. A loose barrel/action joint however is an indicator of a very worn gun.
Make sure the barrels aren`t pitted or, if there is any pitting. it should be very light and shallow.
Refit the fore-end and check that is is held positively. The latch should work positively but smoothly.
Check that the top lever works positively and smoothly with very little stray movement. Be very suspicious of a lever that has free play. The top lever should centre - approximately - when the gun is closed. New Italian guns often have the top lever offset to one side when new - they will centre with use.
Examine the forward parts of the action very closely - look for hammer or vice marks which are likely indicators that the action has been tightened by crimping.
The action should open and close positively and smoothly. There should be no grinding or unpleasant noises.
Drop in a couple of snap caps and make sure that the safety works properly and cannot be over-ridden by knocking the gun about. Pull the front trigger ( if a double trigger gun ) and then open the gun to check that the ejector/extractor is working properly. Close the gun and pull the rear trigger and then check for positive ejection/extraction again. Close the gun and pull each trigger one after the other and check again.
If the gun has a single trigger with the second barrel operated by recoil inertia it will not set after the first barrel has been `fired` with snap caps fitted. Hold the gun around the fore-end firmly and give the butt a hefty whack with the heel of the other hand - this should set the trigger for the second shot. Some guns require rather more `thump` than others to set the trigger so might have to be checked with actual cartridges.
Make sure the triggers operate smoothly and positively.
Check the rib to make sure that it is not loose - loose ribs, especially those that have been loose for some time are bad news as they allow for the ingress of damp which can perforate the barrels.
Check the overall condition of the gun. Make sure that the engraving is crisp. Worn engraving indicates a very well used and invariably worn gun.
If an old gun has very black barrels and colour on the action be particularly vigilent in all the above checks - there are a lot of very worn guns that have been re-blacked and re-coloured. You can`t expect barrel blacking and colour case hardening to stay bright - `grey` barrels are not an indication of a worn-out gun.
Check the action - face and flats - and look for hammer marks. Light pitting on the face around the strikers is acceptable. Make sure that the strikers have nicely rounded ends - chips indicate that they will need replacing - not an expensive job but should be taken into account in the purchase price. Check the barrel flats and the ejector rods to make sure all is as it should be.
At this stage I measure the bores and wall thicknesses. This will probably mean that you will have to take the gun to a gunsmith. Any less than 20 thou wall thickness 9" forward of the breech is an overly worn gun.
Finally take the gun somewhere that it can be shot and put a box of cartridges though it. If the action has been tightened by bodging this should shoot it loose again. I`m not going to explain the process of effecting a temporary bodge to tighten a gun that is shooting off the face for obvious reasons.
Hope this is of some assistance.

Best-
Vikram

Another reason that a barrel on a shotgun can burst is if there is an obstruction in the barrel. Did you friend check that his barrel was clear before firing?

I had a friend who picked up his shotgun that sat over the winter in a corner of his shed and when he fired it, the barrel blew off the gun (a pump shotgun). A mouse had built a nest in one of the barrels and he didn't notice.

Never heard of Wilson & Co. DBBLs. Probably a Munger or similar make.

There was a Wilson and Son,UK, who made/sold guns.


Best-
Vikram

It's always a good idea to look through the barrels of a double before putting a shell into the chamber. I have a nice SxS L.C. Smith here right now with a blown barrel, caused by a cleaning patch left in the barrel. The lady owner had cleaned the gun after a hunt, but neglected to look through the barrels after the last patch, or before shooting it the next time. In this particular shotty the barrel wall was really too thin, about half of what it ought to be, which is not at all that uncommon in a double with its swamped barrels. Luckily it burst far enough up the barrel that she was not hurt.
Sometimes a cardboard wad can do the same thing, or a base wad can come out of the case. The new one-piece plastic cases and wads have pretty much eliminated that problem, but the old built-up paper cases could cause problems.

Same happened to my dad's gun several years ago. That was because the gun, an SBBL, was originally a 16 bore but was chambered for 12 bore. My dad was the third owner and we realised this only after the mishap that luckily left him with some minor injuries. The barrel blew up for about 5 ft in the air and landed a few feet away on the ground and was twisted in the shape of a bow. The receiver was totally damaged and the stock had a long crack. We surrendered the damaged gun to the govt armoury through the politce and applied for permission to buy a new one. The gun was an imported one. Never take the risk of repairing and reusing it. I dont know how the gunsmith can put together such a puece.